Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

Band clamp

4K views 41 replies 11 participants last post by  skylinedan 
#1 ·
Ok, how in the hell do you guys get the band clamp off the back of the turbo ? It took me 45 minutes to get everything else off and I,ve got an hour in the clamp and its still on. at this rate I,m just gonna pull the damn cab off and do it the easy way !!!!!

Dan
 
#2 ·
Take a large prybar and get the two sides off... once you do that, take a smaller pry bar and put the shaft perpendicular to the mating surfaces and then slide it down around the surface. Once you get to the bottom one doing this just pry on it and it will pop off.

PB Blaster helps.
 
#4 ·
the bolt was on top I got the half going towards the pass side loose ,but the side towards the drivers is a problem because I cant push on the end . No room too get back there, I even tried from underneath. All I have is this stupid calmp and its off, I hate it when you get that far only to come to a compleat halt.

Dan
 
#5 ·
Going to soak it down with some Zep and try to fita bar in behind it somehow, be back later.

Dan
 
#6 ·
If you have trouble fitting a prybar in there, try using a small pick of some sort. I always have good luck using a small pick on the 6.0 turbo's.
 
#8 ·
ITS OFFPuttiing it bacon wont be fun. The down pipe is a peice of cake compared to this thing. Now I just have to get the turbo out from under the cowl. take the braket off for the stock intake tube and I should be good. Thanks for all the sugestions you guys , Now I have to start working on getting the trans out, and then its up pipe time. Oh and one question are the up pipes supose to move around at all ? My drivers side seems to move around a bit.

Dan
 
#10 ·
fords4life, he means the collector flange clamp on the turbine housing inlet. ;)

Soak it in WD-40 or my personal favorite: PB Blaster. I can usually get a screwdriver kinda over the top of the turbo to hit the driver's side part of the clamp. If the bottom part still wants to stay on after you get the other 2 sides off, get underneath with a long prybar and you should be able to pop it off.

Dave
 
#11 ·
LOL Dan, if you'd have said the trans was coming out I'd have said pull the trans and then the turbo. You can get to the EBPV rod and that clamp alot easier with the trans out! ;)

And no, the up-pipes shouldn't move around. Sounds like you've got bad donuts.

Dave
 
#12 ·
I know I,m doing this all wrong LOL. I just wanted to start at the top and work my way down, the trans is coming out because I have a new one to put in, and I ordered the donuts a few weeks ago. Last time I changed the oil I noticed a little black soot on the driver side. Rebuild time for the turbo and a new swisher wheel to cure some surge issues, if that don,t get rid of it all I,ll go ats housing.

Dan
 
#13 ·
Yeah the Y colector rocks forward and back, I can see where it has leaking on the pass side now also. Thanks again for the help.

Dan
 
#14 ·
I have had my turbo out half a dozen times in the last year and that clamp is still a SOB every time. First time though, you would think it was welded on.
 
#15 ·
Coat the inside of both clamps, back of turbo and down pipe, with some anti-seize next time won't be near as bad.

I'd also put everything back together while the trans is out......MUCH easier!! Put the turbo on first then do the up-pipes and you'll know they are not in a bind and should not leak.
 
#18 ·
Just take the dowpipe out of the way and you can lay under the truck and do the WHOLE thing with the following tools.

10mm shallowwell socket
1 wobbly universal sligthly taped up so it doesn't wobble so much.
1/2" wrench.
12" extension
Stubby style ratchet for ease of use.

15 mins to take them out if you suck at life.
 
#17 ·
Its coming out tonight I hope, I,ll start pulling shafts and the transfercase and see where I,m at. I have a ton of %^&* to do, I have a 25 row cooler to put on it and I,m going to put a filter in line for the trans, I fugure next week it will be done.

Dan
 
#19 ·
On the V-band at the turbine inlet I always take a normal length flat-head screwdriver and if you feel along the top of the collector there is a little indention just to the driver's side of center, top where you can stick the tip of the screwdriver in and twist. Pops it right off without question.

As was already said, coat the inside of the band with antisieze (copper preferably) and it will always come right off.

If you can find a slightly longer T-bolt it will go back on in a fraction of the time.
 
#22 ·
Screw finding a longer t bolt I,ll make one, LOL. I have,nt gotton that far, having issures with the 4 bolts that hold the turbin housing on the center section. Can,t find a 12 point 1\4 drive 8mm or 5\16 socket. I,m heating the bolts so I may just force a 6 point on if I have to, and its realy just the 2 down where you can,t get to them. Shaft seems to be stuck also.

Dan
 
#23 ·
You can force a size larger 6 point on there and get them off. I did on a friends turbo who brought over the WRONG size socket (told him to bring a 5.16" 12 point). Don't worry about heating them, just tap them on with a hammer.

Reminder... an 8mm 12pt WRENCH or SOCKET will work too if you can keep steady tension on it to prevent rounding them off.

PS Make this WHOLE thing A LOT easier on yourself and just get a 3/8" drive 5/16" 12 point.
 
#26 ·
I'll keep that in mind for the next one, just never had any trouble with a 8mm before:shrug:
 
#28 ·
I got them off, I heated everything but the ones that hold the compresor housing together. Its all back together, i cleaned it enough you should be able to eat off the damn thing thats for sure. Painted the housing too just so it would look pretty under the hood, LOL. Got rid of the EVBP shaft, welded the holes and ground the inside nice with a carbide on the die grinder, then a little flapper wheel to smooth it out.

Dan
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top