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06 F350 build

3K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  HeavyAssault 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have been reading on this forum for a while now and have saved up some money for my build. It's an 06 F350 CC SB SRW, 149,000 mi., build date of 06/05... I am looking to have a DD with some go and still be able to pull a 10K 5'er in the near future. I want this truck to last so I want to do it right.

I have the following:

Isspro EV2 - EOT, ECT, Pyro, FP gauges
58v Hot FICM
SCT w/ mild tunes
Stock exhaust piping, w/kitty, w/o muffler
AFE CAI
Blue Spring Mod

What I plan to do:

Powermax w/Batmowheel (on the bench)
Water/Meth (on the bench)
4" MBRP TB straight pipe (on the bench)
ARP Studs w/OEM gaskets
GoGo intake
175cc stock or 155cc/30% or 175cc/75% injectors
Coolant filter w/ flush
Oil cooler
Dummy plugs and stand pipes
6.4 Banjo's
STC Fitting
Pusher intake elbow
AirDog II

I am hoping to hit 500 HP. I will have to worry about the tranny build later. My question is, am I missing anything?

I plan on pulling the heads and having them checked and milled if needed (cab on); would like to do the one at a time swap since I have no puking and no white smoke, but don't want to have to do it again if I run a hot tune and blow a gasket. I have a slow oil leak somewhere; I can see some caked stuff in the valley and it drips down the back of the block. It takes about 5-6 seconds to start when cold and a little puff of smoke, and only 1-2 seconds when warm, so I am not sure what's going on there.

Thanks for the thoughts and opinions, I don't get offended easily so speak your mind.

:psn:
 
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#2 ·
I dont know what "on the bench" means but I would make sure you did the coolant flush before you did the oil cooler just to make sure you get it as clean as you can so the new one doesnt plug.
I also would stay away from the Powermax turbo. I just dont really like it as it really isnt that good and for the money you would have into it with a batmowheel, I would seriously consider a MTW Stage 2 turbo. I'll have some more info after this weekend but already there are 5 guys out there that I know of that are running it and it spools just as fast as the stock turbo does and flows more air than the Powermax. The only problem is that this turbo just hasnt been around as long as the powermax has so it can have some street credit. What I recommend is, do a little more research on the turbo portion. I like your injector ideas. If you tow heavy and often, I recommend the 155/30s otherwise I recommend 175/75s. JMOs. Best of luck man.
 
#4 ·
So I searched the turbo you mentioned....I guess I need some schoolin....VGT , non VGT.... 10 blade, 12 blade, 13 blade.... 58mm/88mm....62/70????.
I skimmed through a post on another forum where you mentioned a stage 3 for heavy towing... Is the mentioned turbo built from scratch or a modded stock turbo? Who makes the MTW? Can you give some lessons here or point me to who I can call and talk to, thanks.
 
#3 ·
'On the Bench' meaning I already have them purchased and they are on my workbench in the garage waiting to be installed.

Yea, I will do the coolant flush first with the old equipment then install the new stuff.

Damn about the turbo..... I'll start looking at the information on the MTW and see...... If it flows more air that would be what I want... Considering I'm going to drop $1200 on the GoGo intake.

I don't tow that much right now, maybe 2-3K a dozen times a year, but hopefully in the next year or so get a 32' bunkhouse 5'er for camping with the family.

Thanks for the info.
 
#6 ·
I say go with 190/75's. I have no trouble towing with my PowerMax (stock wheel) and 190's.
 
#7 ·
After some info from Windrunner408 I'm looking into a different turbo than the Pmax. I might move up to 190cc with over nozzels, but I need to talk to the turbo guy first about my best options, then the tuner guys about the ability to clean them up. I have a W/M kit I will be putting on so I am not too worried about EGT's, but I don't want to be dumping fuel out the back either.

Thanks for the info though. Hearing someone with a combo bigger than what I was looking at makes me feel better about my research for the original decision on turbo/sitck combo's.
 
#8 ·
What about RCD 68mm Powermax w/ batmowheel?

Compared to MTW Stage 2?

What about an S366 with a batmowheel?

I still don't know enough about these turbos, but still reading. I am just vomiting what I keep coming across. This turbo thing is driving me nuts. If it helps, I think I have decided on 175/75% sticks.

On a side note, I have been reading some unfavorable posts on the AD2; and I haven't read anything good about FASS, so is there another fuel supply out there?
 
#9 ·
OK....the powermax is not a crappy turbo. AT ALL. seems like every post about turbos is now turning into a "mtw" thread. The powermax is a brand new, bolt on turbo that is PROVEN on hundreds of trucks. and like you said nate...there are only about 5 of these turbos out there right? I ran a powermax with my 190's for about a year and it did great as a reliable DD that still packed a punch and you can't beat a brand new turbo that will support over 500 hp for $1100. now I'm not saying that the MTW turbo isn't a good turbo at all (and I've talked to Adrian about stage 4-5 for me) but to say stay away from the pmax is not necessary. with some more testing and actual data from the MTW stuff...i'm sure they will take off. Adrian sounds like a stand up dude that makes a good turbo so far. but don't count other options out.

fwiw...I'm running a 68 vgt from RCD that runs awesome with my 190's. more than 580 at the wheels, 750-800 degrees cruising, very little smoke with the right tuning, no surging, etc etc.

to run a 66mm, you're probably going to need a little more fuel and it will be a laggy bitch unless you get a t4 divided housing, divided uppipes, and possibly intake/manifolds. that's a big wheel to spin and if you're going to be towing with it....you're going to have to have some serious tuning to get it to run well.


oh and IMO...the batmowheel is nothing more than a 7.3 version of the wicked wheel. a lot of extra $ for not THAT much gain over a cast wheel. Plus, on these smaller wheeled turbos...there really isn't a reason to go with a billet batmo because the wheels are still light enough that they will spool fine. once you get into bigger wheels, then I'd go billet. even then, I'd rather spend the $ on other stuff than a batmo. again...IMHO.
 
#10 ·
I already own the Pmax w/batmowheel, bought it used off a wrecked truck (cab and bed totaled, front end was untouched). I read alot about them and they have a very successful record, hence the reason I bought it. I haven't ruled it out, I am taking Windrunners post as quoted " I just don't really like it".

fwiw...I'm running a 68 vgt from RCD that runs awesome with my 190's. more than 580 at the wheels, 750-800 degrees cruising, very little smoke with the right tuning, no surging, etc etc.
Is that the Pmax 68mm? Do you tow anything with it? Who tuned it?

I won't be building my truck until this fall so I figured since I have some time, I would get some feedback on what I want to do. I have been reading for several months and just today learned of several other forums that I will be checking out.

to run a 66mm, you're probably going to need a little more fuel and it will be a laggy bitch unless you get a t4 divided housing, divided uppipes, and possibly intake/manifolds. that's a big wheel to spin and if you're going to be towing with it....you're going to have to have some serious tuning to get it to run well.
Like I said, I have some learning about turbos still, because I don't have a grasp on divided housings, uppipes I understand. I plan on a GoGo ported intake.

I appreciate your thoughts, thanks... I can only learn so much by reading others posts about their builds, that's why I finally registered and posted my own plans.
 
#11 ·
I think you would like the batmo'd pmax for 175s. If not you can send that pmax to rcd and they can mod it into a 68mm modded pmax whoch is what I would run with 190s. I think RCD and eric at ID make tunes for the modded pmax.
 
#12 ·
I like Eric's tunes, I have a head bolt safe tune now and it's nice. It's also nice to know if I end up installing the pmax and need more flow that I can send it in and have it modded for less than a 68 would cost. Any idea what it would cost to mod, or I might just have to call him.....

Still holding out to see what Windrunner has to say about his stage 2 and 190's.
 
#14 ·
Jeeeez! If you buy a powermaxx for 1200 and then mod it for 900, it makes more sense to just buy a different turbo if the money is there, all though im gonna be running a stock powermaxx with 205/100's, ill let you guys know how it goes, jesse said it would be fine, kind of hard to argue with the builder of the injector if he says it will be ok :bowfast:
 
#15 ·
Been reading about the Airdog 2 issues as of late and now considering an Airdog 100 or 150 to supply the stocker, and adding a sump and RR.

My question..... what makes one RR better than another? Meaning, I've seen them between $450 and $700. Can I put a 'T' in the crossover line from the back of the heads to get my fuel pressure reading? I was thinking that would be a better place

What is a fuel bowl delete?

And I've updated my build list.......Opinions?

MTW Stage 2
Water/Meth
4" MBRP TB straight pipe
ARP Studs w/OEM gaskets
GoGo intake
190cc/100%
Coolant filter w/ flush
Dummy plugs and stand pipes
6.4 Banjo's
STC Fitting
Pusher intake elbow
AirDog 100 or 150
Regulated Return
Oil cooler??????
'Possibly' an external oil cooler system
'Possibly' a Spearco or Mishimoto intercooler
 
#16 ·
Ok a few things. If you are getting 190/100s, then do one of two things. Either dont get 190s or dont get a Stage 2 unless you never want to tow anything larger than a little lawn trailer. I would say that for the Stage 2 that you should probably stick with 175cc injectors.

I'm just saying that for the goal you have outlined for your truck above, I think you need to look at a different injector/turbo combination.

Now as far as the difference between an AD150 and AD100 goes, I would hands down get the AD150 and use a sump. It will support 190s. I have a sump to AD150 to stock pump to the heads (fuel bowl is deleted) and RR coming off the back with the pressure set at 64psi at idle at the regulator. At WOT when I did my dyno runs, pressure dropped to 50psi. When you add an AD you can delete the fuel bowl for sure.

Now as far as a RR kit goes. PM me and I'll tell you how to just make one and save you some money as well as how to delete the filter bowl. The whole point of the RR kit is to make sure the fuel rails are flooded with fuel before the pressure is regulated. This way the back injectors dont get starved for fuel.
 
#17 ·
I was thinking I could get the 190's and have a couple of different tunes written: One for my DD and one specific to defuel for when I am towing. That's what I was thinking anyway....best of both worlds? I guess I should talk to someone at Holderdown (that name keeps popping up for the goto place for injectors).

Fuel system.....Did you have to drop your tank, or lift the bed, to run lines to the stock pump?

Damn, this is gettin $$$$$.
 
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