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Studs one at a time cab on with pictures.

53K views 208 replies 39 participants last post by  ksieckmann 
#1 ·
Just completed my stud job one at a time with cab on, Im not interested in hearing your opinions on the methods I used. This is merely to help others that are in the same position as I was. I had been experiencing puking for a few months before I got time and cash to do all of this. I did not replace the gaskets, although with the room I made it wouldnt have been that much of an issue I believe. If this in fact does not work, I am only out my time in doing so. I can easily pull heads out again now that Ive done it once, would take a fraction of the time. I used the ARP torque sequence moving center out, torquing them first to 140ft lbs, then after replacing all of the bolts with studs, I used same torque sequence but went straight to 250 ft lbs. Going past the recommended 210, Ive known of people doing 285ftlbs , If i had a bigger torque wrench, I would have probably done 265ftlbs end torque. Make sure you have a good 12pt 18mm deep socket also. And a good sized cheat bar.


This all being said here is how I tackled the drivers side. Im not going to involve all of the details, its pretty obvious what you need to remove to get to the valve covers, The denting the firewall works wonders for the far back bottom bolt. I did use the cutting method to remove the bolt head. I used a long heave steel bar to dent in the firewall after peeling back the insulation. After denting it in, pulled bolt up as far as I could, zip tied the bottom to keep it from sliding back into head, and cut off the bolt about 2" from top. Was able to slide bolt right out then, and also get stud back down. A little more denting was needed to fit the head of my torque wrench down on top of the bolt. That side wasnt to bad at all.


On the passenger side, everyone says, remove the heater box. This isnt necessary. Remove the RH side cover off of the heater box, and then you are able to remove wire connections and lay the ac cooler on top of radiator or by where battery was. I also removed the 3 nuts on bottom behind glovebox in cab, and 2 nuts on top to slide the heater box out about 3" to put in the back bottom stud. You may have to remove your vacuum pump from fender if it hits it. (2 - 12mm bolts) Here are the pictures and let me know if you have any questions.


I will post a status of how it turns out without replacing the gaskets. I'm sure I will hear plenty of "that will never work" comments, even though I asked that those comments be kept to yourself. Ive had requests from guys asking how this works for me. And I will keep updates. As for the pictures for the one at a time, I hope these help, cuz there aren't a lot of picture resources out there for this procedure.


Thanks and I'll answer any questions you have.
 

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#2 ·
I personally think if 250ft-lbs wont work then 285 probably wont either because at about 315ft lbs they snap. Eitherway I agree with the one stud at a time approach as well unless you're puking already but hey if it works for you, who am I to say it was as bad idea?? And like you mentioned, the only thing you will be out is your time. I hope it works for you. Best of luck man.
 
#3 ·
Thank you sir. Yah 250lbs should be plenty. Im not out to say this is going to work so F%%% you! Im hoping it does work, If not, im only out my time, but if it does, its hope for others to try it also. I remember when they used to say doing studs one at a time is ridiculous and will never work ya know? lol
 
#5 ·
if i read it right you plan to dyno it very soon also. so blown gaskets, Studs, 175/stocks, plus a new tune. In to see how this goes.

just gotta say if you cant afford to do it right you cant afford to do it twice
 
#6 ·
Im not interested in hearing your opinions on the methods I used. This is merely to help others that are in the same position as I was. I had been experiencing puking for a few months before I got time and cash to do all of this. I did not replace the gaskets, although with the room I made it wouldnt have been that much of an issue I believe. If this in fact does not work, I am only out my time in doing so. I can easily pull heads out again now that Ive done it once, would take a fraction of the time.
What part of this didnt you understand? lol
 
#9 ·
I think it's awesome u did it like that...for ppl like myself that doesn't have 3 grand or more to drop to make somthin reliable when u wanna have some fun wit it, I'm thinkin about doing this myself too, like u said if it doesn't work then screw it then u ain't out anyhing but the time u put into it and it if does hold up then u saved yourself an ass load of money! And think about all the know how u got out of trying this yourself! I hope it works like hell for ya!
 
#10 ·
just to clarify the issue is not doing studs one at a time but rather doing them like that knowing the HG's are bad.
 
#15 ·
At least you tried it. Hope it works for ya, how bad was your puking?
Did you ever test you coolant system pressure before? It would be interesting to know how much difference in pressure there is after the studs (if any) ya know. That would tell ya for sure if they worked or not.
I am interested, as myself and 3 of my buds with 6.0's have had very very minor puking 1 time and 1 time only.

Glad you gave it a shot, and look forward to following your reports!
 
#17 ·
Oh wow....i actually have never had to add coolant yet. Just the one time it puked a little. Since then it hasnt puked again.
But I do know I have a problem cause it will build coolant pressure up to about 16psi after an hour so of towing.

So if it helps your situation out maybe it will really help me out!!
 
#22 ·
LOL


so back on topic..... how many hrs of under the hood time did it take you do you think? what did you use to cut the heads off the bolt?
 
#23 ·
Well I'm still waiting to button it up because I'm waiting for injectors to arrive. Hopefully today. But total time installing so far would be between 6 - 8 hrs, and that was taking my time being patient. I used a right angle grinder with the thinnest cut off wheel. They were soft bolts only took a few seconds.
 
#24 ·
so when you removed part of the heater box did you have to disconnet any a/c lines?
 
#26 ·
Nice job so far, interested in seeing how this works out for you.
 
#27 ·
Yea every post Ive made does the same, several smart remarks, they only read part of the post. That is why I only read here sometimes. Hope it works for ya.
The good side you have the studs now if it does need done again just gaskets and check the heads is all.
 
#28 ·
injectors in yet??
 
#31 ·
im glad you decided to go with 190's
 
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