idk if this is thr right area to post this but does 5k sound like a good price to get truck studded at a shop im in medina ohio would love to get it studded for under 3k! only been to one shop 5 is way to high right?
5k is a little high. We usually do studs,egr delete, coolant filter, oem head gaskets, all new top end gaskets, head machining and all for a little less than that.
Are your head gaskets actually blown?? If they are not, I would recommend just paying $400 for some studs and swapping them out yourself one at a time and torquing them down to spec. You would have to move some stuff around in the engine compartment but you could get er done with some time, patience, a good socket/wrench set, and a torque wrench. That would save A LOT right there.
Yes they can! As I mentioned above, you have to move some stuff out of the way like the heater core box on the passenger side of the firewall and you might have to "massage" the fire wall some because the bolts/tools MAY hit (I have heard of guys that didnt have any contact whatsoever); but either way, if pull a head bolt out and replace it with a stud that is torqued to spec, it most certainly can be done and there are plenty of folks running studs this way with great success. If I would have thought about it more when I did my head gasket job, I would have went this route to begin with. Ask Jeremy (lubeowner) about this and he can give you the skinny on it a little better probably. I would think this could save a few thousand for other and more important things :evil
mine is done one at a time and is holding over 55psi boost and not a single drop out of the degas bottle. it works as long as your heasd are COMPLETELY FLAT!! also i torqued mine to 255 twice!!!!
Man the best thing you can do is hook up a pressure gauge and drive the #### outta it. If heads lift even a little it will be a dead give away. That's what I did with mine. Coolant pressure never got over 13 lbs so I said #### it and took the chance. I torqued the piss out of the studs though.
Yea when I did my head gaskets I only torqued the studs to 210+ twice. I am thinking that I am going to go back over them again when I swap my injectors back out here in a couple of weeks and taking them up to like 225 twice over.
I look at it this way for the one stud at a time deal. It is kind of a PITA to move the heater core box but other than that it is basically really easy because you dont have to pull any turbo, intake manifold, fuel lines, etc and if it doesnt hold then at least you have the studs already. So in the end you are really only out like a few hundred bucks and some time. JMO.
Well it seemed like a reasonable increase over 210. I have heard that 245 is what quite a few folks take them to. Also my torque wrench only goes to 250ftlbs.
well you can rent a gauge from a parts store or what i did is just put a 3/8 tee in the radiator over flow hose and hook it up to a low pressure gauge. i just used my boost gauge so i could monitor it with ease while driving. any type of pressure gauge will work.
i havnt sprayed any n02 yet but i am running water injection at 8lbs of boost so im almost always spraying. water/meth will raise the cp's a good amount and n02 even more! and i havnt had any releaving of the degas bottle. ill be spraying n02 and meth the middle of this week so that will diffently put it to the test. with the shot of n02 i should be seeing well over 60 psi of boost.
Yea I'm with Matt here. Check the pressure first. Get the truck up to operating temp at like 30 mph and pin the throttle and see what the pressures get up to.
Hey guys new here, just got a new truck in march got it cheap and I had 3 new injectors put in... 2003 f250 ex cab long bed 4x4 6.0 154k mi 6in lift running 37s now, came with 315s, but I was wondering how you guys are pulling this off doing one stud at a time?
But are the studs just studs with out a head on them? I was thinking the nut on top would bottom out on the top and them all your torque would be put at the bottom of the stud? I guess i just need to look at how the studs are made...?
the top of the stud has a allen head cut out in it so you can tighten it all the way down in the block then you put the nut on the stud and tighten down the heads. hope this helps?
Thanks this makes sense. I am going to get a pressure gauge today to check because when I first got the truck it did have a coolant leak...so lets hope my HG's are good I dont plan on doing any crazy tunes if any but I do want it to be reliable. I go places where it is a long way back out!!!!
a little word of advice. when installing the studs know how deep they should go by measuring, then when you install them they should bottom out at the expected depth, measure again, then back the stud out 1/4 of a turn before you install the nut and torque. you want the stud to stretch, NOT apply extra tension on the threads of the stud by bottoming it out. I have installed allot of studs and i know what i am talking about. You only go back 1/4 of a turn to insure you still get maximum thread in the hole for strength. Do not tighten the stud in the hole, this will overtension the threads in the head and the stud.
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