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Project20v Build, 6.7 ZF6 Superduty

105K views 382 replies 31 participants last post by  Scubudo 
#1 ·
Thought I'd start my build thread. It will help me keep track as well as share info for everyone else. I will try to include as much detail as possible.

Truck, early '99 7.3 4R100 F350 Superduty.

My 7.3 lived a short 150k miles and blew through a piston. Upon teardown all pistons were cracked, #6 opened up enough that a hole burned through it causing no compression.

Option 1, repair powerstroke and beef up so that towing with power is possible. Option 2, remove dead weight and install reliable motor that can actually tow with power.

The 7.3 is a terrific motor stock, enough said. My only mods were GTP38R, SRP1 , DPtuner, regulated return, Late '99 turbo system, stock injectors. Never towed over 1250.

Trans- 4R100, has been out 4 times. ATS stage 4.

New setup: 2010 Cummins 6.7 with 5 miles, brand new 2009 model Ford ZF6.

More to come.
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
I've been following your build. I'm gonna stay fairly stock, I just want it to be reliable and blowing motors is WAY too expensive. This is what I say now anyway. I've got the motor in now, still trying to decide on a clutch (single or dual) so the tranny is not yet in. I have to cut the floor still too.

I am interested is your knowledge of getting the cruise to operate if you care to share?

I have lots of pics of the progress so far, but having trouble loading them.
 
#5 ·
I've been following your build. I'm gonna stay fairly stock, I just want it to be reliable and blowing motors is WAY too expensive. This is what I say now anyway. I've got the motor in now, still trying to decide on a clutch (single or dual) so the tranny is not yet in. I have to cut the floor still too.
I contemplated the ZF6 for my swap. I used it in my old truck. I'll be watching your swap to see how that works out for you. I couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in my floor and modify the transmission tunnel.

FWIW, I'd go organic DD.

I am interested is your knowledge of getting the cruise to operate if you care to share?
I haven't looked at the 08 Dodge wiring diagrams for this yet.

On my 05 I sent the right voltages to the CC input pin on the Cummins ECM to activate the various functions.

On the 08 Cummins I am not sure if CC is turned on and off via CAN bus messages or voltages. Whatever input it uses, I'll use it.
 
#6 ·
I love the idea of a dual disc, but I don't want difficult or slow shifting. I'm currently leaning toward a Valair single dual friction. I do a lot of towing and don't think I'll exceed 450/900.
 
#7 ·
450/900 is at the edge of single disk territory. Check out SBCs website for more info.

The clutch issue is what drove me to go with an auto in my swap. That and I didn't want to cut the floor.
 
#8 ·
I have a floor piece coming from Oregon, should be in tomorrow. I know the single will barely do the job, but I don't want to fight it to shift like I hear from the people with a dual disc.
 
#21 ·
Usually that is an adjustment problem or they haven't updated the hydraulics on their clutch system. But DDs have other issues.
 
#9 ·
7.3 piston failure. I believe this was cause from excessive timing, I never exceeded 1250. The lip on the bowl is the problem.

Pics when I got home, had my buddy tow the trailer home from Labor day.
 

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#10 ·
Cyl contribution showed #6 failing. Borescope showed a large crack, out she comes.
 

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#12 ·
I was going to run my stage 4 ats 4r100 with a PCS controller. I decided that I never really trusted the auto anyway (It has bee out 4 times) and I knew that if I had complete control of the trans I would NEVER leave it alone, I would always be messing with it.

I love manual trannies so opted for a ZF6 S750 for a 6.4 powerstroke, new from the factory. I've been through these trannies and don't trust a rebuild. I got enough for the ATS to pay for a new ZF6.
 

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#13 ·
I got the replacement for $5500. A 6.7 from a 2010 Dodge with 5 miles on it. Complete minus computer and harness. I picked up a 2008 computer and harness on Ebay for $300. Here it is stripped of the emissions, accessories, etc.
Then getting ready for paint. The paint is from Eastwood, very nice stuff, universal red and satin black.
 

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#15 ·
I painted it at work. Since the big truck is broke I used the little VW to bring it home, it was interesting!
 

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#17 ·
Motor install. Using Destroked mounts. I got it to fit a little bit ass up with the valve cover off.
 

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#19 ·
Next is the power steering. I am using a pump and res. from a 2004 superduty. The 04 res. is mounted on the fender instead of by the headlight like the 05-07. My 99 has the ABS module by the headlight and I'd rather not move it although I like the huge res. used in the 05-07. The dodge pump is too close to the steering box for me. I got the bracket from GOSperformance, you will need to remove the alignment dowels from the 6.0 pump as the bracket has no provision for them.
 

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#22 ·
Thanks for posting pics.

I'm about 2 weeks behind you, mainly because I have to pull the head to install the rods.

What brand of paint did you use ? (Eastman ?) Did you spray or brush ? (Spray ?)

Man that thing fits nice using the Ford PS pump and the relocation bracket. I kept the Dodge PS pump on my first swap and have regretted it ever since.
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
Many thanks for the links. I owe you one.

Your engine is beautiful !

How did you block off your injector tubes ?

How much paint do I need ?

What did you undercoat it with ?
 
#25 ·
Get 1 quart of paint, 1 8 oz activator, 1 qt. urethane reducer. That will be more than enough for the engine. It is enough for the trans. too if you get another 8oz activator. Wouldn't hurt to get a second reducer for clean up also.

I got 2 qts red for the eng and 1 qt black for the trans and had way too much.

I primed it with some high heat primer from Napa, VHT?, just some rattle can. I should have got that from Eastwood too, but it worked fine. Be sure wipe down everything with some reducer before painting.

For the inj. tubes I just put on some plastic caps off of hydraulic fittings. I think I used -6 pip or -6ors, I don't remember. If you have a hydraulic shop around they will probably give you some.
 
#27 ·
Next up is the fan. I researched this quite a bit. I decided that a manual clutch is simple and reliable and that the 7.3 fan moves tons of air. Solution - Fan hub adapter from GOS performance allowing me to use the 7.3 clutch and fan with the 6.7 mount. They also recommend the 6.0 shroud and radiator which I am also using (more to come on that). Second is the charge air. I'm using a GDP manifold plate with no AIH and a Pusher inlet. I have a ether injection system that I'll be installing. No painting the inlet or charge pipe until the fitment is right. At this point I'll have to trim 2" off each end of the charge pipe.
 

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#28 ·
How did you like that engine stand for working on your engine ?

I need to do headstuds and rods, which requires dropping the pan and pulling the head and I need a good stand to do it.

Would one like yours work OK ?
 
#29 ·
Not really. The cummins is quite top heavy and wants to flop over, it is best to have help when turning, I used a forklift.

I had the stand backed up to a 8'x20'x1" steel sheet, slid some 2" square tubing in to the ends of the stand and welded it down. I did not trust it.

My powerstroke is on a different type that seems more stable. It has 2 legs coming out instead of 1 in the center. I'll post some pics.
 
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