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stupid question

1K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  silver1 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm replacing ball joints and a wheel hub assy, on my 01 4x4 f350 and I am no longer using the factory vacuum controlled lock outs Ive got warn Manuel hubs so you guys think its still necessary to replace that outer Axel seal since one of its main purposes is to hold a vacuum so your auto hubs will work ? Just a thought . All replies and or laughter lol will be greatly appreciated! (btw my old seals not in terrible shape) ps does any one know where I can get a large pickle fork for that d@m# lower ball joint !
 
#4 ·
I used mapp gas and sprayed PB blaster as it cooled. Several cycles and tapping with a hammer on the axle around the circumference of the BJ eventually broke them loose. Keep the top nut on so you don't crush your toes lol... Also had to take them to a welding shop to have the old BJ pressed out and new one in.

I think you will want to replace/keep the vacuum seal. In addition to sealing for vacuum it keeps crud out of the knuckle and hub protecting the needle bearing. If the old ones are good and still on the stub then you could probably use them...this would prevent you from having to buy/make a "special" driving tool. But clean the inside surface of the knuckle and grease up the seal either way.

Keep at it. That knuckle will eventually POP off.
 
#5 ·
yeah what a bitc# right now my biggest consern is getting that lower B.J. to pop, the top ones lose but Im afraid my camber sleeve may have moved
I marked the top not sure if thats what could move though. BTY amazon had moog B.J.'s, 1 side, for about $72 shipped .
 
#10 ·
The simple answer is yes. It protects the needle bearing in the stub shaft. But like above, if they are solid and on the shaft you can re use them. Saves about $50 per side if you get them from Ford.

The caveat us that if you live in a rusty state you may want to replace them. Any tears or leakyness will allow corrosive material to enter the back of the hub and ruin you bearing/shaft.

There's a great write up on superdutypsd com that describes in detail the process. You need a "special" tool to seat the new seal.

I didn't have any luck with the ball joint puller I rented from O'Riely's. So I had to beat them out and use a 50 ton press to get them out if the knuckle. Mine had 170 K on them So that might have been a problem. Lol.

Also, its a good time to service the caliber pins. Search for springerpop I think I used a wright up from him, it maybe it was guzzle. Google will find them both.

Hope this helps.

Special tool in action.

Cylinder Gas
 
#11 ·
The simple answer is yes. It protects the needle bearing in the stub shaft. But like above, if they are solid and on the shaft you can re use them. Saves about $50 per side if you get them from Ford.

The caveat us that if you live in a rusty state you may want to replace them. Any tears or leakyness will allow corrosive material to enter the back of the hub and ruin you bearing/shaft.

There's a great write up on superdutypsd com that describes in detail the process. You need a "special" tool to seat the new seal.

I didn't have any luck with the ball joint puller I rented from O'Riely's. So I had to beat them out and use a 50 ton press to get them out if the knuckle. Mine had 170 K on them So that might have been a problem. Lol.

Also, its a good time to service the caliber pins. Search for springerpop I think I used a wright up from him, it maybe it was guzzle. Google will find them both.

Hope this helps.

Special tool in action.

View attachment 28640
thanks for the great reply ! I recently did the brakes and greased the caliper pins At that time . also my local dealer wanted $80 to press on the seals I was going to buy from them ! When I explained that it was a relatively easy task for a tech. with the proper tools like a press, this kid said a minimum of $40 ! I said T.B.N.T. I wanted to say you can K.M. @ss!
 
#13 ·
Change the dang seals. When ever you go cheap you will eventually get burned. Is it worth having to replace the unit bearings ($350-$500 and hours of work) again just because you wanted to save and petty $50 and 30 mins? How does that make any sense at all??? Look at every Unit bearing "how to". They All replace the seals. Also you should be checking those ujoints between inner and out shafts. Any looseness and binding at all and they should be replaced. If you would like any How to procedures I can post up some links as it can be very helpful if you have not done it before. Let me know.
 
#14 ·
Well I can buy the tool that seats that seal for $59 , that's about what the Stealer wanted to press one on . As far as u-joint replacement, mine aren't bad now but they don't have grease fittings So I might do them wile I'm in there. Also Ive not seen a good right up on U-J replacement so if you have a link that would be great ! Also I'm really struggling with that lower ball joint I saw somewhere a guy used a sawzall to cut them off, ever see or hear of that . I bought one yesterday. been wanting one for a wile anyway. BTW thanks for the great reply !
 
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