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Just another swap

6K views 33 replies 17 participants last post by  7.3LN600 
#1 ·
For now.....

 
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#3 ·
very nice, need some specs and more pics please
 
#7 ·
so clean! and such a good looking truck on top of it all!
 
#11 ·
Thanks guys for the compliments. FWIW even my 6.0l at 117k was clean...especially for a northern truck.
Time took longer than normal I guess. Mainly because I wasn't in a hurry and I am funny about the details as I wanted a factory kind of look. I picked up the motor around labor day but have had a month or two go by during the process without even touching it. When I did there were some really late nights juggling life, work and full time school. Then again I think the real beauty is under the hood and I could care less about whether or not something is a beater so there was a lot of time, cleaning prepping and painting while putting it together.
I fabbed up everything to make it work. Spent a great deal of time on the wiring. Unfortunately the posts going way back in here, while the best on the forums, they all sucked, were absolutely confusing and incomplete. At best you could get a piece here and there to work with. I should take the time to lay it out so anyone can do this without any confusion but I am only working with two specific trucks of the many possibilities. So I had a friend get me access to a paid for Alldata type of service and I spent a few days pouring over the dodge and Ford schematics pin by pin for myself to make it all work. I reworked every harness to make it look factory..it was a lot of work. Fired up the first time and everything works that has been connected. Ok so I have 1 thing to do, tie the reverse lights but it is already half done and it won't see the road till spring anyway.
In all if someone were to just do a swap to make it work, I have heard of a slap it in job with everything on hand ready go has taken a weekend. I would say at best 2 weekends would be a slap it in with all the fitment and fabrication of pipes, intake, exh, mounts, coolant lines, battery trays etc. There is a lot that you don't see in the pics.

For those looking to do this here are some of the things I had to do to make it work.
Ok so where to start....
-Acquire the drivetrain
-Install a dodge input shaft into ford transfer case to use the 48RE
-Position engine to fit and build motor mounts.
-Severely modify the dodge trans mount to adapt to the ford cross member, inv cutting and welding
-Fabricate coolant system including lower radiator hose, mine is a rigid convoluted S type pipe with rubber couplings at both ends.
- fabricate the heater hose system with "T" to integrate the 6.0l degas bottle using the oem hard line on the firewall.
-Route trans cooler lines to ford radiator and trans cooler including an external suncoast filter however you can still use the oem toilet paper filter. The lines were pricy as they needed to be hydraulic, hold moderate psi and most importantly temperature. or you can bend new rigid lines.
-Build a fuel system with a new pump and filter assemblies. You could use the ford with a regulator to severely drop the pressure to acceptable levels if needed but its no secret the cummins requires 2 micron filtering.
-I used a 2nd gen manifold to move the turbo so you will need one of those.
-Build new oil supply and drain lines to fit new turbo location.
-Build the downpipe to fit the ford and new turbo location...:evil will be redoing this real soon as it will move again!
-Marry the two A/C lines to use the dodge compressor in the ford chassis.
-Weld in the second a/c sensor so both computers can monitor and perform functions related.
-Put the 6.0l fan on the dodge clutch in order to use the 6.0l shrouds that are properly fit to the ford radiator and allow the cummins ecm to control the fan for water temp and A/C.
-I used my 220a ford alternator with an auto world bracket I had to modify.
-I used an auto world power steering bracket to use the ford pump on the motor as the dodge pump sits to close to the steering gear on the leaf spring truck.
-New belt of a different size due to the ford pulleys.
-Fabricated the intercooler tubes as well as the turbo and manifold intakes.
-Find an air cleaner that would fit.
-Build new battery tray that is fully supported. Mine is tied and welded to the power steering reservoir which required moving a few inches with a new rigid mount tying into to the fender support.
-Swap 6.0l sensors onto the cummins to make the gauges work- water temp, oil pressure and crank position sensor using another auto world bracket to make the tach work. This is the way to go!
-Marry the two engine wire harnesses together into one loom.
-Same for transmission.
-Cut up and weld dodge pedal assembly onto the ford mount for a factory installed looking throttle pedal.
-Obtain new OBD port for dodge ecm and connect it.

For the most part this is what needs to be done, I may be missing something but it is a good list to start from when planning what you will need to do when putting a CR conversion into a Ford.
The timeline involved could be different for you as in mine the work was 100% me. I had no help in doing any of it unlike another person on the forums who I extensively helped build hi ...oops had to delete the rest of that.. sometimes you get so mad at someone then realize they are not worth it and actually begin to feel sorry for them.. But I still have the magazine article with my name on his truck..

I will say that the the three items I got from auto world, alt, pwr str and crank sensor brackets really made things easy. just alignment alone could be a nightmare. Also they were a pleasure to deal with through the planning emails and the fact that they sent some supporting documentation to do the install that was far better than anything I have ever received over the years from any tuner. In fact they went above and beyond what they could have gotten away with by modern customer service standards.

I hope that helps some of you who are considering doing this project..
 
#14 ·
Very nice, extremely clean looking!
 
#15 ·
Very nice.

Do you have a part number on that valve cover ?

Which twins are you running and how do you like them ?

How are you controlling the 48RE ?

How much work was it to strip and paint the block ?

Thanks !
 
#16 ·
It There was some work involved in getting it cleaned up. cummins does not paint them from the factory. They do spray some kind of coating but it seemed to stick to the harnesses and other things better than the block.

There are no twins on it as of the moment but I do have most of what is needed for when it happens.

The cummins ECM controls the 48RE. The dodge Chassis computer was not needed.
On the 6.7l withe the 68RE it may be different, I think that has its own controller but I am likely wrong as I have not looked into it. the new ford trans has its own controller like the allison does.

I have the cover number just no with me at the moment.
What you don't see is in the back while being tight I have the draft tube hooked up and the crankcase breather tube functional. For the 6.7 you will need a modified one as they are different from 06 up due to the injector harness being part of a gasket. Its a marine cover and through a friend straight from cummins. I know there are kits available modified for the 06 up with venting for almost triple what I have into it but they are still reasonably worth it.
 
#20 ·
It There was some work involved in getting it cleaned up. cummins does not paint them from the factory. They do spray some kind of coating but it seemed to stick to the harnesses and other things better than the block.
I'm thinking of painting my 6.7. Any advice or tips you have would be appreciated.

There are no twins on it as of the moment but I do have most of what is needed for when it happens.
You flipped the manifold and mounted the HE351VGT upright ? It looks like a twins setup because the turbo seems high to me. Maybe its just the camera angle ? Are you using a stock manifold ?

BTW, the air piping looks real nice. How did you get it that way ?


The cummins ECM controls the 48RE. The dodge Chassis computer was not needed.
Oh, that is right, I forgot about that.

On the 6.7l withe the 68RE it may be different, I think that has its own controller but I am likely wrong as I have not looked into it.
07.5 to 09.5, ie CM2100 have the PCM on the truck controlling the 68RFE. From 09.5+ (ie CM2200), the Cummins ECM controls the 68RFE, just like the ECM did on the 5.9 CRs.

the new ford trans has its own controller like the allison does.
The 6.4/5R110 and 6.7/6R140 both use stand alone controllers. On the 6.4/5R110, it uses the gasser PCM, just like Dodge does. I don't know what controls the 5R110 on a 6.0 truck.

I have the cover number just no with me at the moment.
I'd appreciate that.

What you don't see is in the back while being tight I have the draft tube hooked up and the crankcase breather tube functional. For the 6.7 you will need a modified one as they are different from 06 up due to the injector harness being part of a gasket. Its a marine cover and through a friend straight from cummins. I know there are kits available modified for the 06 up with venting for almost triple what I have into it but they are still reasonably worth it.
Some people are just using a small block Chev valve cover breather on their 6.7s. I haven't look into that deeply yet.

Thanks for the reply !
 
#18 ·
I had a local shop put them together. Just call around and find out if they can crimp A/C lines. If so mark your hose lengths and take it to them. It wasn't a big deal.

I also know that auto world offered to do it. They will if you send them to them.
 
#21 ·
BTW, you did the right thing taking your time.

I did a CR swap in my '99. I didn't do a bad job, but it was rushed. Nearly 6 years later I still haven't gotten around to going back to clean it up nicely. Its ran perfectly for 6 years, with not a single issue, but it still would have been nice to make it purdy purdy like you did.

Nicely done !
 
#25 ·
The swap came out real nice, If my 7.3 ever takes a crap (hopefully not), I plan on switching over. I didn't pay attention to what state your in is there any smogs issues you have to deal with?

Mike

:ford:
 
#26 ·
Thanks again guys..

Its in Michigan and we have no smog testing..

If you ever do a swap the federal law is the new engine must be the same year or newer for emissions standards. if I had the cat that was stock that is all that would be needed for compliance.
 
#29 ·
Very nice job! You should definitely bring that out to one of the Michigan get togethers one of these days, I'd love to see it in person!
 
#31 ·
How is it looking space wise for the twins ?

Are you going to keep the secondary mounted on the inverted 2nd gen manifold ?

Is the primary going to mount down where the stock turbo was ? Or... is there room to put it on the side by the fender somewhere ?

I'm trying to plan ahead for twins on mine.

btw, you did a great job on the intercooler pipes. Do you have a buffing wheel ? TIG welder ?
 
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