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Hydro assist steering kits

62K views 87 replies 18 participants last post by  7.3Scott 
#1 ·
My steering stabilizers are shot and instead of replacing them i think this would be a better route. What is the best kit for the money i was looking at ******* ram i plan to call them tomoro. Is there any neg. when running a hydro assist?
 
#3 ·
There are some negatives. If you don't' have your ram stroke set up correctly to your steering stops then you can tear apart all the joints at the knuckles.

If you have too large of a ram your steering will be harder. Make it difficult to turn quickly.

Also you really should get a kit with a reservoir. The pump just doesn't have enough storage, if you look into it while the truck is running, the fluid is coming in as fast as it is coming out. It will run fine, but the pump probably won't be happy for a long time... LOL

Then if your pump goes out your brakes run off the same system....

Also, to do it right it is an expensive modification. If you have a 6" lift then I would recommend going to a high steer knuckle, then your truck will turn better then stock.
 
#10 ·
PMF has some high steer kits.
I had the PSC hydro kit. their rebuild on my steering gear sucked balls :(
I ran my truck A LOT in the desert, through brush, mesquite mounds, etc.. and I never had a problem w/ my hydro lines. Measurements should take into consideration suspension articulation. I used 1/2 heater hose tubing cut down the middle and wrapped my hydro hoses w/ that wherever there may be a chance to rub against something. I then zip tied it up and in 6 years I never had 1 hose issue.
 
#18 ·
If those stabilizers are installed correctly and making it hard to steer you need a new pump or maybe need to give it some servicing. Something next to nobody ever seems to do. Flush the PS system. Replace with a all syn trans fluid like Schaefer's All Trans or the like. You might find it runs much better. Maybe add a magnafine inline filter like they use for trans.



THe best deal for product performance for the dollar is West Text Off Road ******* ram hydro assist. (They use the same ram as PSC)

Its not rocket science and the "pit falls" or " negatives" (which are there and I agree with Laysons list) are avoided by a some reading and a dose of common sense as well as going with a prefab system like the WT RNR. Its not hard IMO.

If you can change your ball joints you can do this. Welding the ram mounts on is best. If you do not weld find and mark you places for the mounts and take it to someone to weld them on. Likely get it done for a case of beer at most. 4 tabs is all it takes.

You will then be able to turn the wheel with one finger sitting still at a light. If its a 05 up I am almost certain it will cure the death wobble. Has in all the ones I know of it done on at least.

I can not tell you how nice it is compared to the typical way a stock SD steers at a stop. IMO if you run larger wider tires its a must. All my old trucks and Bronco had them and I hate myself every time I turn wheel on my current X for not yet doing it. It is going on when the 40s go on which shoudl be right around the corner.

If you think about what we ask of out PS pump and gear comapred to the attention and hardware it gets we are lucky with how it does function.

With bigger tires or hard use I would consider adding a cooler, full flow filter. With a hydro assist especially with the big tires I would add a extra add on reservoir as it can use more fluid capacity and room for fluid level change.
 
#27 ·
Good Idea I will call Jermy on monday to see what he has to say
 
#29 ·
Its not about it being a bandaide fix its just a fact that it does seem to fix the issue. I have seen people spend all kinds of money on everything from all kinds of suspension parts front end alighments new tires wheels hubs you name it. Maybe a caster change can address this issue on trucks with aftermarket suspension lifts on them but if it was something so simple as a caster change on trucks running stock major suspensions parts you would think Ford would have clearly addressed this by now.

Regardless that was not the point of my post. I was simply pointing out how powerful the system is and over all benefits that can come from it.

But I am interested in whether or not a simple caster change has corrected stock suspension death wobble and what that setting is. I have a friend that has basically a entire brand new front end right down to the nuts and hub to hub and he has bad death wobble. He has had this thing into a very good alignment shop here that does a lot of total custom rigs so they actually know how to do more than read a computer screen. He still has it bad. You will be his hero if a specific caster will fix this issue.

.See I think its more than just a caster angle although I do agree you have to get teh alinement correct and caster is a key as anyone thats seen a shopping cart should be able to see. I think toe in is also a key setting to help minimize it.

But beyound that with stock suspension and seeing a some videos that caught the underside of the front end. I think There is actually weak points in the factory setup. Mainly in the track bar and mount. In general IMO it needs to be beefier plan and simple. It also to much flex and movement. You also have a bit of angle with the draglink. For maximum strength and rigidity you want those to be in line with each other do you not? Running parallel to each other is what I am thinking. It tends to cause its own accelerated wear which only pushes the issues off onto other parts and they wear. Then by the time you go to get it fixes there are all these various things that look to be the possible cause.

This all may be addressed with lifted trucks with adj heavier duty track bars and mounting points in quailty kits so maybe all that is left is to get the alignment to the right spec?

One of my future upgrades is a 05 + front end swap in. The one thing I have been concerned with is dealing with these issue should they come up. I figured because I will be going with a high end suspension kit I hopefully will not have any issues beyond alignment. Right now my eye is on one of those lower lifts from OUO. I have been impressed with a number of their parts and system creations. Too bad they have the price that comes with it. LOL
 
#33 ·
What will happens I can almost say for sure is as those stronger stabilizers start to wear and loose strength you will find you DW returning more and more. This is the part I do like about the hydro assist in that its not going to happen. Now again the real cause is likely weak part or bad angle of it. Without reworking the suspension and given how our PS pumps seem to need some help as they are pulling double duty a hydro assist offers postive effects.


Layson,

Yes I figured if there was "best designed" system OUO would be getting there. I have to say from videos I really like that air bad rear setup they have. I would really need to spend some test time driving and riding in one before I made a final decision on that.

I have been meaning to call them for a long time. Even have his cell phone number. I need to get on this now that things have started to go smoothly and I am wrapping up engine upgrades. The plan is a 05+ F550 front axle with some parts swapping to work for the X. Might go to a 80 rear. They both will give me a big jump in strength and braking power. Then install them with a OUO 4"-6" system. Closer to 6"

If I stay with leafs in the rear I will get the traction bar built I have on paper.

I still want to talk with them to fully understand the reasoning with going with a 3 link system on these Super duties then adding that one extra contact control point and going to a 4 link. At these costs its not price point. So what is it that a 4 link changed that made the 3 link be better performance? I have to understand that then I think I will be able to better move forward.
 
#37 ·
What will happens I can almost say for sure is as those stronger stabilizers start to wear and loose strength you will find you DW returning more and more. This is the part I do like about the hydro assist in that its not going to happen. Now again the real cause is likely weak part or bad angle of it. Without reworking the suspension and given how our PS pumps seem to need some help as they are pulling double duty a hydro assist offers positive effects.


Layson,

Yes I figured if there was "best designed" system OUO would be getting there. I have to say from videos I really like that air bad rear setup they have. I would really need to spend some test time driving and riding in one before I made a final decision on that.

I have been meaning to call them for a long time. Even have his cell phone number. I need to get on this now that things have started to go smoothly and I am wrapping up engine upgrades. The plan is a 05+ F550 front axle with some parts swapping to work for the X. Might go to a 80 rear. They both will give me a big jump in strength and braking power. Then install them with a OUO 4"-6" system. Closer to 6"

If I stay with leafs in the rear I will get the traction bar built I have on paper.

I still want to talk with them to fully understand the reasoning with going with a 3 link system on these Super duties then adding that one extra contact control point and going to a 4 link. At these costs its not price point. So what is it that a 4 link changed that made the 3 link be better performance? I have to understand that then I think I will be able to better move forward.


Maybe we should be looking at the compression and rebound on our shocks. it looks like the DW is not just a problem for lifted trucks. It seems that the DW is caused by larger wheels and tires and shocks that are not correctly valved. Look at the wheel after the new Ranchos it bounces about half as much as the old shocks. As for caster I know for a fact when I was running 3 degrees of positive caster it was much worse than 5 degrees. Your thoughts? P.S I love that silver Tuck but i cant afford 80+ for new truck and suspension
 
#34 ·
I got drive the silver truck about 1000 miles and it rides better than anything I have in the driveway. Even ridden out 5 or 6 jumps in another truck. Full travel no bump steer and rides as good or better than a caddy. People complain about costs but all you have to do is ride in a truck or drive one, or just plain see the kit in person and you will understand.


Silver Truck













You really ought to call him. He can explain why he went with a 3 link setup. (his front arms for 05 trucks are the same way) I think I gave you his cell phone long ago in midst of a traction bar battle... Lol

I forgot to mention I road shotgun in a couple runs in the gray dodge(bagged rear end) at WOT up and down and through the dunes. It road awesome!
It is unbelievable that something so big can ride that good.



Op sorry to muck up your thread....
 
#35 ·
Oh hell those pictures !!! That is a more like art work than suspension. I am pretty much sold on it. I likely will fly out there to check out the stuff and then go from there. First though is to talk to him.

Damn thing is I will have to sand and paint the entire underside and axles before I install such beautiful components onto it. LOL Mainly just the frame and axles.


Thanks Layson you have helped or made things worse depending how you look at it. LOL
 
#41 ·
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That is my recommendation for hydro assist. After doing them compeltely DIY and using kits. IMO WTOR Red Neck Ram is the best balance. Not sure if they have updated the pics on their site but they use the same ram as PCS and all the fittings are long radius JIC etc.. The pics were very old that at least use to be on their site.

My recommendation also if you truck has a good amount of miles is go ahead and get a new gear box like a Red Head Gear Box. This way you are sure everything is tight to start with. Its a great time to make sure all bushing, joints, hubs, u-joints are in good shape and not worn or loose.

The thing is we all as owners tend to only replace parts when they fully fail or cause effects we are not willing to or can't live with. this rather than replacing parts when they reach preset levels of wear or miles of use. We then end up with one part accelerating the wear of other parts and then we get there issues were we hunting for the root cause and stuck changing part after part etc... Now add in aftermarket parts and things that increase stress......
 
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