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moog or xrf ball joints?

22K views 31 replies 22 participants last post by  Pocket 
#1 ·
trying to get a poll going who favors which brand, i gota do ball joins this month, dont know which ones to go with
 
#4 ·
I used Moog when I did mine about 6 years ago.
 
#8 ·
stupid dumb question of the week... "how do u know when u need to change ur ball joints?"

i got 37k logged on my truck and it just doesnt feel as tight as before
 
#9 ·
Moobs are nothing like they were 5-10 yr ago as far as quailty goes. Do soe online searches of mechanics on forums many have stopped using them all together. Since the parent company merger is what I am guess.

Likewise do a search of XRF and you will see they are very highly rated and do very well. With the work it takes to do ball joints I could give a crap less about the warranty. I want them to last. Also XRF are about 1/2 the cost and the quailty differences is quite noticeable if you put them side by side together. I have run both as well as Spicer. As long as XRF quality stays were its at I will not be switching from them period.
 
#10 ·
MOOGs suck period these days, go with the napa premuims, lifetime warrenty and better then OEM
 
#11 ·
i was told that napa premiums were made by moog when i went to get mine done this last time!
 
#12 ·
IIRC they are. I can not say I heard it from MOOG but the NAPA guy told me the same thing. Agian not saying its 100% verified. But spicer and Moog are now both under the same company umbrella and likely share things I would not be surprised.

I will be sticking with XRF.
 
#15 ·
Most problems with ball joints are installer error. How many have read the little sheet that comes with the Moogs?????

There is a specific torque spec and sequence for installation. I have Moogs in my 01 axle for 10 years and ran 38- 41" tires the whole time. My ball joints are as tight as the day i installed them.

My early 99 has some cheap E bay 4 for a $100 ball joints in it for the past 5 years and they are still tight after using the Moog installation sheet. This truck has had a 1k plow on it every winter since they were installed.
 
#16 ·
In case anyone wants the info. Here it is straight off the Install sheet

1) Torque the lower ball joint nut (1 5/16" socket) TO 35 LB/FT ONLY AT THIS TIME . To keep the ball joint from spinning, you may have to apply light pressure to the knuckle with a floor jack.

2) Tighten the upper castellated nut (1 5/16" socket) to 69 lb/ft. Insert cotter pin. If the hole does not line up for the cotter pin, tighten the nut a little more, do not loosen to align the hole.

3) Now tighten the lower ball joint nut (1 5/16" socket) to 150 lb/ft.
 
#17 ·
I still think moog is some of the better quality stuff out there. Compared to brands like duralast and such Moog is better. Never heard of xrf so now I'm gonna have to rersearch it.
 
#22 ·
Non compare to Dynatrac ball joints....you get what you pay for



Dynatrac.....rebuildable...far superior.

High strength billet steel and heat treated bodies.
Super strong chromoly steel, heat-treated stems.
Fully greaseable on the truck.
Heat treated, precision ground stainless steel ball conforms to Military specifications.
Teflon coated internal wear points.
Fully-adjustable cup support protects against severe road impacts.



 
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