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drmiller100's simple W85 thread

15K views 41 replies 9 participants last post by  voodoomaker 
#1 ·
the simple simple W85 thread

Credit to Doug (drmiller100) for the original posting at another site:


Eventually you are going to pump fuel into your truck. The fuel will go through a hose.

On the other end of that hose is a QUALITY 3 TO 5 MICRON FILTER.

Whole house 4 dollar filters do NOT qualify as a 5 micron filter.

The QUALITY 5 MICRON FILTER WILL CLOG UP OVER TIME. And that filter is relatively expensive.

Everything else you do to filter the oil is an attempt to make that filter last longer.

Some people upflow.
some people centrifuge.
Some people do happy rain dances and pray over their oil.
Some people let the oil sit for a year.

Some people say the hell with it and just use a HUGE 3 micron quality filter and replace them every 300 gallons.

But EVERYONE SUCCESSFUL has a quality 3-5 micron filter which ALL fuel goes through before it goes into the truck's fuel tank.

Other then that add 10 percent RUG to the WMO, mix thoroughly, do your intermediate stuff, then RUN THE FUEL THROUGH THE 3-5 micron QUALITY filter on the way into the truck.
 
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#2 ·
take one used 55 gallon drum.
Add 40 gallons used motor oil, used atf, or hydraulic fluid.
add 5 gallons regular unleaded gasoline, mix a little.

Let sit 3 days for most of the gunk to settle to the bottom.

Use pump and filters and pump into your trucks fuel tank.

enjoy 52 cents per gallon fuel.
 
#3 ·
Good Oil:
any used motor oil. The thinner the better, but anything works. Synthetic, car oil, diesel oil, tractor oil, lawn mower oil, all burns just fine.
Used ATF. Great stuff. Thinner then WMO, so it burns more like true D2 so you need less RUG.
Used Hydraulic fluid. Again, great stuff, and needs less RUG.
Heating oil. This is actually thinner then D2, and you can mix it with WMO to "thicken it." I certainly wouldn't pay for the heating oil, but I have had a bunch of it given to me, and I just add it to my W85 mix at 50/50 and it burns great.
Old gasoline. Rather then RUG from the tank, I have burned a lot of "old gas." When gasoline goes bad, it first loses its potent smell, and is actually GREAT at this stage to thin the WMO. After that the gas discolors - still great. Eventually the gas "sours" and has that horrible stinky smell. I don't burn this stuff as I'm afraid of it clogging stuff, but I bet it would be ok.

Bad oil:
Gear oil - 80-90 weight. Stinks, smokes, and is annoying. Doesn't hurt anything other then your nose. A gallon in 50 gallons of WMO is ok, but 10 gallons in 50 wmo is ANNOYING.
Shock Absorber oil. A local guy rebuilds shocks and gave me 10 gallons. Burns just like 90 weight.
Transformer oil from the electric company. Lots and lots of horror stories out there about eating the insides of the cylinder block.
Milky homogonized milk shake oil. We can separate it to burn, but it is advanced studies and a PITA. Start with easy oil, and if you get offered a bunch, post a thread and we'll talk about latest research.

Don't purposely add brake fluid to the mix, but a little doesn't seem to hurt anything.
 
#4 ·
If you take raw motor oil and pour it directly into your fuel tank, you WILL plug your filters, your intake screens, your fuel pump, and cause yourself a LOT of grief.

You MUST filter ANY oil which goes into your fuel tank.

Engine oil filters are 30 to 40 micron. A micron is a dimension - like an inch is a measurement.

We are filtering to about 3 microns. A 2000 era PSD has about a 10 micron fuel filter.

Would you expect golf balls to go through a garden hose? Not without the garden hose plugging up tight.

If you filter the big chunks out, you can get a small pieces of grass to go through the garden hose.

We are filtering all the big chunks out, leaving the under 2 micron pieces to pass through the fuel system and make power.
 
#5 ·
Used motor oil is black. It is black because of carbon pieces. The carbon pieces are relatively soft, and not very abrasive.

Graphite, coal, and soot are all examples of almost pure carbon. They all burn just fine if you get them hot enough, like inside the combustion chamber of a diesel.

Motor oil in a diesel is black with soot. Black diesel motor oil doesn't seem to hurt soft babbitt bearings or the lobes on a cam shaft, and a few very small pieces won't hurt your hardened steel injectors.
 
#6 ·
Is there metal in used motor oil? Probably, but it is in the range of a few parts per mission.
The hard metals sink to the bottom of your mixing tank just like a steel BB sinks to the bottom.
The very few which manage to "float around" in the fuel will be filtered out by the 3 micron filters.
 
#7 ·
Economics.

I've put 40,000 miles on WMO on my truck. Lets say I got 20 mpg to keep the math simple.
that means I have ran 2000 gallons of WMO, instead of diesel.

2000 gallons of diesel costs 8,000 bucks.

Is my truck worth 8,000 bucks? Probably not.

It costs me 51 cents a gallon to make my fuel. Lets say I get 17 mpg to keep the math simple.
That means it costs me 3 cents a mile to drive around.
If someone gave me a prius and I got 50 mpg, and fuel cost 3 bucks a gallon, it would cost me 6 cents a mile to drive around, and I'd be stuck in an ugly little prius.

When all done, my daily driver is a crew cab diesel and it costs me 10 bucks a week to drive around anywhere I want to go.

Hell, my DAILY lunch bill at McDonalds for me and my kid is more then my WEEKLY fuel bill.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Filtering is pretty easy, but it is not trivial.

You want a filter GUARANTEED to get all the pieces bigger then about 5 microns out of the oil, and you want as many of the particles smaller then that as you can to be safe.
Whole house filters get the big chunks, and they are very cheap. Use them to the bulk of the work, but use a quality spin on filter as your last defense.

For pumps, you want something which will pump near 2 gallons per minute or less of W85, at no more then 50 psi. Eventually the filters will plug, which is a good thing, as it means they are doing their job.

When the filters plug, you want the fuel to quit flowing. You don't want the pump to create more pressure, as it will blow up the internals of the filters and pump raw fuel into your tank.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Filtering is pretty easy, but it is not trivial.

You want a filter GUARANTEED to get all the pieces bigger then about 5 microns out of the oil, and you want as many of the particles smaller then that as you can to be safe.
Whole house filters get the big chunks, and they are very cheap. Use them to the bulk of the work, but use a quality spin on filter as your last defense.

For pumps, you want something which will pump near 2 gallons per minute or less of W85, at no more then 50 psi. Eventually the filters will plug, which is a good thing, as it means they are doing their job.

When the filters plug, you want the fuel to quit flowing. You don't want the pump to create more pressure, as it will blow up the internals of the filters and pump raw fuel into your tank
.
If you are going to try to sell something on this site - you need to become a site sponsor. They are lenient around here with the exception of people making a buck without supporting the site...

Sam
 
#15 ·
When filtering, are you talking about using the water filter system you can buy from the home improvement stores?. Just a newbie question. Thanks, Mike
 
#17 ·
Filled a great starting thread up with all these selling / no selling posts that have nothing to do with WMO. If your going to delete stuff go ahead and delete posts # 9-14, 16 and now 17. Thanks!!
 
#24 ·
I don't give a rat's ass what you think. You broke the rules...deal with it.
I'll be damned if I'm gonna apologize for not handling it the way you thought I should have.
When you work on a website...then you can do sh!t the way you want. Until then...follow the damned rules that YOU agreed to when you registered on this forum....specifically this:

*If you are a vendor, and you are not a Site Sponsor, do not solicit anywhere on the site. That right is reserved for those who sponsor the site. You may have your company name in your signature, but no links to your site and no direct solicitation is allowed.

This fits too:

*We are all adults here, so let's act like it. If you break a rule here and recieve a reprimand, don't start a thread and cry about how you have been "unjustly maligned."You broke the rules, deal with it. Dont bring up anything related to your offense or reprimand in the forums. This is not a forum for you to complain about rules in, it is a Diesel Truck forum.

So...you broke a rule, I removed the part where you were out of line and it was over right then as far as I was concerned...quit crying like a b!tch about it and let's all go on with our lives.
 
#22 ·
What does site sponsorship cost? Could we have a tiered system so it's affordable to little guys like Doug and myself where we get just a very small ad, perhaps in our sig yet the larger more profitable companies get full ads and a full forum etc.? There definitely needs to be a way to promote startup business or guys like me and Doug who just want to help out the community on the side.
 
#23 ·
Like I told you...AutoForums owns this place now...all your sponsor requests will go through them soley. I have no idea how they structure it and I don't care.
I saw you registered on my site the other day....maybe I'll go a little easier on y'all there....but keep your whiny buddy in check, he's on my bad side.
 
#31 ·
Two bulls in a china shop as far as I'm concerned. I'm not getting in the middle of it.

For now I am lurking over at your site. While I see what happens here. My concerns are I need an active alt. fuels forum and an active IDI forum. The IDI forum over at TDS is the only reason I haven't completely left there. So far I've been happy at PSN as far as alt fuels goes but the IDI forum is dead, probably due to the sites name if nothing else. Your site may have the same issue given it's name and the fact that the IDI is not exactly a competition engine LOL.

I'm sending you a PM at your site.
 
#30 ·
Ya know I'm hardly on here but i'm tired of this ####. drmiller, you are acting like the "whiney little bitch" Shut the hell up. This site is made for everyone to share info. It's not for you to complain about how you thought you were wronged because you couldn't follow the ####ing rules. You have some great info and advice but now youv'e gone over board. if you don't like it make your own ####ing website, make your own ####ing rules, but least of all the the #### up. I don't give a #### who you are. This is not your place of business, until it does, chill. Mike
 
#40 ·
Fair enough.
I totally get the idea there are good companies who pay for advertising.

And I don't want to take money from them.

Likewise, I think there is a HUGE opportunity for readers to get a huge benefit from this forum. I spent a LOT of time typing in all the info on this thread to help people out. I basically gave them the road map to get it done.

Can people use their own filter system? ABSOLUTELY! and it works great if you are willing to do some legwork and some testing. Heck Chris, you and I have both learned a LOT from each other, and we have learned a lot from those who we have helped.

My fuel bill went from 100 a week to 15 bucks a week. And it only takes me an hour or so per week to do all the stuff.

Some day will I make enough money to sponsor this site? I certainly hope so.

Is there any other companies sponsoring this site selling the stuff I do? Nope.
 
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