Just go done installing some new polyurathane body mounts on the ol' CrewCab. It took about two full day to complete considering this was the first time we have done it. We ended up buying a slide hammer and making a tool to thread on the end of that and in the lower washer/nut mount and pulled the far back two mounts apart, then we moved up to the middle mounts and ended up pulling the nut off the washer on one side and just decided to use a sawzaw to cut the top and bottom into. the front were completely coroded and basically just broke apart. This is where the process got interesting. We went to out local Rural King and got two 2.5" fender washers and two 1" nut and welded them togather to make out top mount, sorry I didnt get a pic, but it worked perfectly. The only downside to this whole deal is I accadentally broke my fuel selector valve. That part ended up costing me $260. :doh: So for the $50 that the body mounts cost me, I now have $400 in the whole process. Why cant ford actually make something that easy.
To be honest with you, I havent drove the truck yet, we still hare going to throw a few more items in the back, but I did pull it out of my drive way to turn it around. The reason we replaced the mounts are because of the Topper rubbing the Cab while flexing, the Downpipe was slightly rubbing the Cab and the Cab was missaglighned with the bed. So far from what I can tell, this was all fixed. And it looks better, If only the Topper and TailGate was painted to match the truck.
I have thought about replacing my mounts and have thought about the pollys but am concerned the polly mounts will transmit to much noise and vibration.
I also have an old friend who installed the back two mounts only to keep the cab aligned with the bed and he nor I never experianced any thing out of the ordinary. He was too lazy to do the rest. I ended up doing all 6 and it took two us about a little over a full day, but we had som stubborn bolts and mounts.
The ride and body sway is great, but I also replaced the shock to rough country nitro shock as well. The only problem I have now, is that once I got the body lines lined up, my topper hits the third brake light.
I don't think so, but I did. I ended up using the top sleeve of the rear mount. I cut the front in half and used both of those, and the front mount I made my own custom set-up.
I have, yes you re use the sleeves. It is a long process but so worth it. The front tank is in the way for the rear drivers side, I didnt remove it just let loose on the straps so it gave a little more room. Core supports werent easy either, I ended up cutting them with a sawzall and was able to re use the sleeve and just bought a grade 8 bolt to replace what I cut.
The core supports are the hardest to remove, but the easiest to get at.
I removed the bumper to give me more working room.
There are 2 ways to remove the other 4 you can use the exhaust pipe and angle iron puller method, or you can use the the method that came in the instructions with the Prothane kit I bought. Worked pretty well.
Go buy a long 6" or longer Grade 8 7/16 bolt, thread it in from the top just like the factory bolt and hit it with a hammer or rubber mallet. It worked perfectly. 3-4 hits and they were apart.
Way easier than I thought. Dropping the front tank to get at the driver's side rear was a pain though.
A quick note, you might want to spray everything with some WD40 and let it soak a few days. I could only re use the rear washer/sleeves the rest I had to make.
Thanks for the help guys. I am going to see If I can Buy the sleeves from LMC or the like. The last time i checked FORD only sold the sleeve WITH the rubber bushing
I am going to cut my mount off with a saw-zaw. i cant seem to get the sleves to come out, AND the one I was able to get out was almost rusted through!!!
I dont know if you have seen the "spacer" FORD uses.It is a 2 piece design.they make them by welding a washer to a piece of pipe. there are 2 for each mount. The top and bottom body bushing each get a "spacer put inside it. Then the 2 bushings are put together thru the actual steel cab mount that is rivited to the frame. When you slide the 2 bushings together the steel "spacers" slide inside each other for a VERY tight fit.
Get a 5" length of 3" exhaust pipe. A Piece of Grade B7 All thread 7/16 coarse. About a foot long. 3 nuts. and a piece of angle iron 1/4 thick 1x1 or 2x2 about 3.5" long.
Passengers rear mount. Drill a hole in the center of the angle iron for the all thread. Stick a 5/8 wrench on the bolt in the cab. Then from underneath use a 7/8 deep socket to unscrew the nut. Once the bolt is loose, just pull it up as far as you can and leave it. Then place the piece of exhaust pipe over the bushing at the bottom. Then thread the All thread into the nut on the bottom of the bushing.
Slide the angle iron on the piece of all thread and run 2 washers (2 washers under the nut) and one of the nuts down till it's held snug (no need to tighten) against the exhaust pipe. Take the other 2 nuts and jam (tighten) (2 x 11/16 wrenches needed) them against each other on the all thread about an inch above the angle iron so you can get a wrench on the bottom one. You now have a puller. Put a wrench on the bottom of the 2 jammed nuts (11/16) and start turning. The bushings will compress alot, but the sleeves will pop apart. I do mean POP!
After you get it apart, use a dremel or large drill bit to remove the crimp on the upper sleeve. Then reassemble.
Also be sure to grease the bushings at all mating surfaces. Anti-sieze works great.
For the Drivers rear use 2 ratchet straps fed over the frame and under the bed to lower the tank. You will need a 10mm socket a 13mm socket, a 13mm wrench and a 15mm deep socket to free the tank.
The middle 2 come out the same way 5/8 socket on top this time. Flip up the carpet on both side and pull out the rubber grommet the bolt is there.
7/8 Deep socket from underneath again. You can't use an impact, because the rubber just bounces around never loosens. A breaker bar or long handled 1/2 drive ratchet will do the trick. Same puller as the rear. Once you have the depth set on one bushing you shouldn't have to disassemble it, just thread in and go.
Be sure to keep an eye out for shims on the middle 2 bushings under the floor board. Put them back in on top of the bushing on reassembly and coat in anti sieze.
The 2 front mounts at the radiator support usually rust to the bolt, because there is a trough on the top of the washer that can hold water. I recommend just cutting the heads off the bolts with a sawzall or grinder. You will need a grade 8 7/16 coarse full thread bolt 4.5" long to replace them. As well as a fender washer for the bottom. Also, there is a flange nut on the top of this mount near the battery on both sides. It is an 11/16. You need to remove it before you cut the bolt head off in case the mount spins.
Coat everything in anti-sieze on reassembly. I mean everything. Anywhere metal touches metal or bushing.
Torque to 85 ft/lbs From the bottom on the rear 4 (need a wrench on top to hold the bolt). 75ftlbs from the bottom on the Radiator core and the same from the top (weaker nuts). Check torque after 100mi or a week or so.
Parts for puller:
Exhaust pipe: Autozone O'reillys or other.
Angle iron: Lowes, Home Depot or Tractor supply.
All thread: Tractor Supply or any bolt house. (Lowes and Home Depot only have Grade 5 Might work but I don't trust it.)
Nuts : Same as Above
Tools Needed:
Ratchet Straps
3/8 and 1/2" Ratchets
10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 5/8, 11/16, and 7/8 sockets
10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 5/8, 2 x 11/16 Wrenches
3/8 and 1/2 extensions as needed.
Angle grinder or sawzall
Vice for disassembling the front mount after cut
Vice Grips for the same Removing the cut bolt.
4.5" 7/16 full threaded grade 8 coarse bolts and USS fender washers: Bolt house or Tractor supply
I'm gonna make some SS sleeves for the rear bushings....
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