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97 7.3; crank no start

8K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  Tater50 
#1 ·
Thought I posted this yesterday, but can't find it.

Bought a 97; 7.3;auto 4x4 for parts; it is a complete truck, just has been sitting for 3 years. So, I said heck, I'll try to start it; might make a great truck for my farm. I am not real familiar w/diesels. Batteries fully charged; block heater on for many hours. Wait to start light works; clicks off after about 5 secs; full of fuel.

Scenario:
1. Cranks but will not hit "at all" w/o depressing the pedal
2. Cranks but will hit & attempt to start while depressing pedal half way

Any suggestions on what procedures that I should take?
 
#6 ·
Re: 97 7.3; crank no start: Sequence Update

*Fully Charged Batteries
*Block heater on for 3+ hours
*Scanned:
P0344 CMP Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0603 Internal Control Module KAM Error
P1280 ICP Circuit Out of Range Low
*GPR checked OK
*Drained Fuel Filter
*Removed Fuel Filter (booger to get off) Tried a 1/2" drive; no go. Took a pair of huge pliers; inserted the grip part vertically; held handles w/one hand; other hand put a long screwdriver horizonally between the grips & slowly twisted it off (caution: wear gloves so you won't bust your knuckles)
*Added Diesel Kleen & replaced fuel filter
*Disconnected ICP & blew out oil with air (plug & sensor)
*Tried to start, no start, disconnected ICP; Started up; ran rough
*Replugged ICP
*Put in 4X4 range; Low & drove it for 45 minutes on my farm
3200 RPM was the max out; seems to be running on about 4-6 cylinders
*Placed in 2WD; 20MPH was all I could get across my field; more distance would have gotten 30MPH
*Shut it down: tried a restart, chug a lug; no start.
*Disconnected ICP: slow start, but restarted 3 more times

Proposed future format: will learn more about the P0344 CMP sensor & the P1280 ICP; see if I can purchase those from a recycled place & proceed.

Am I wasting my time on recycled parts?

PS You guys have been great; would have taken me forever to find all this info otherwise.

Later/Tater
 
#7 ·
The P1280 is your problem, with out 500 psi it is not going to start. I would start with the IPR valve.
 
#9 ·
IPR is mounted on the back of the HPOP. Two-wire plug that is just like the injector plug. IPR is a solenoid-operated valve (the ICP sensor is on the driver's side head). Cheers!
 
#10 ·
Just remember the IPR valve is open with NO voltage, you have to put 12v to it to close it and test it.
 
#11 ·
Update: this is a project truck; work on it whenever & as cheap as possible.


I decided to do some connector cleaning: 2 front FIH connectors had an outer burnt Female pin. Actually, it was the Female plug, not the male valve cover portion that was burnt. Anyway: my logic is this is the biggest problem agreed? This has got to be the major malfunction right now???

Later/Tater
 
#12 ·
Project Truck Update:
*Removed Oil Filler Cap: smelt like burnt plastic
*Removed both VCovers: passenger's side; looks like I will have to remove
the GPR & loosen the Alt; to get it to clear. Rear bolt was tough; but
w/an extension & a flex on the 13MM was able to break it loose & use
the air wrench to make light work of it.
*All harnesses were fried to some degree (bad design having 3 connectors
so close)

Truck will not run: plan to do a search & figure out how to test GPs & Injectors.


Robp823 has been MOST helpful in the Private Message Forum: I appreciate all the great help; I am learning very fast.

Later/Tater
Let's Play some softball!!
 
#13 ·
Update: As indicated that some of the wire harnesses were fried; so this portion needed to be replaced no matter what other problems existed.

Anyway: weather was permissive today; so began the process. Replaced harnesses & tried to start; same scenario, but that's OK.

I did not have the VC's attached cause I wanted to check oil distribution; turbo tube was not attached to VC; would that have made a difference?

Will proceed to remove fuel filter & clean & re-ORing & during the process will remove, clean & possibly replace IPR (have a spare on hand).

Looks like decent weather next week: will start pulling parts & doing the job.

Thanks for all the help
Tater50
 
#14 ·
Update:
My F550/6.0 had the same problems that the 250 has; so I removed the F550FICM & repaired it according to Dr Quad's info & it started right up.

My logic took over & I thought well, I got a running 350 that has an IDM that I can swap to the 250 & BINGO; started right up & purred like a cat.

Got it running; will locate an IDM.

The VC harnesses were necessary parts to replace anyway, since some were fried.

Thanks for all the help
Tater50:ford:
 
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