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removing the exhaust back pressure valve???

87K views 66 replies 26 participants last post by  Ron's power stroke 
#1 ·
is their any advantage by removal of the exhaust back pressure valve?
doing 4" upgrade, since i'll have it all apart, figured i'd ask.
thanks guys!
:D
it's for my early 99!
 
#35 ·
If you just buzz the rivets off and leave the shaft you don't have to worry about closing up the hole or what to do with the arm.
 
#37 ·
When I delete them I take the pedestal off and remove the snap ring from the back and take the guts out of the actuator. Then i drill the hole and tap it to accept a 1/4 inch npt plug. Otherwise you run the chance of it leaking. The other option is to buy a non ebv pedestal.

 
#38 ·
I'm i gonna have to replace the o-rings than? how do i remove the pedestal?
sorry, i'm new to all this!
 
#39 ·
i also just found this. is it true??? or is it ok to plug without ANY problems?


OEM



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OEM Non-EBV Pedestal - Early '99 Ford Powerstroke (PRE 12/98)
FREE WITH ORDER: Two sets of o-rings (upper and lower) included for installation

YOUR COST: Qty
$135.00



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Detailed Description
This is the Non-EBV pedestal for the Pre- 12/1998 7.3L Ford Powerstroke.

If you have removed your backpressure valve EBV from the outlet of the turbo, you need this pedestal.

Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?

A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.

THERE IS NO CORE CHARGE ON THIS ITEM.
 
#40 ·
both will do the job..i moded mine with a stock turbo then went with a deleted kit when i got my 38R...the only diff's is the bolt head sticks out in your's.. and the already deleted one has none...i moded my stocker cause it leaked and a kit didnt fix it...IMO if mine didnt leak..i wouldnt mod it...a new one is big bucks...you could sell your's later to cover the cost of a new deleted one...there are people out there (like craige list) that run these trucks and believe these need to be in place...
 
#41 ·
no STILL anwsered if i can just leave the arm hang down or not! i don't want to mess around pulling the pedestal off. i already took the butter fly flap out.
 
#42 ·
I suppose if you disconnect it , you could shorten the arm so it can't hit anything and go with it. If not, that rod could move in and out and catch.
 
#43 ·
Just hook it back up with the slide clip. It can turn all it wants with the butterflies removed it won't matter.
 
#44 ·
THANK YOU! glad you could help!;)
 
#48 ·
If you make short trips in winter I would not remove it. I drive only 4 miles to work and regret it. If you drive like most people -remove it. You will be fine.Dont expect any power gain or egt loss.
 
#49 ·
i don't drive it in winter, just a summertoy hauler!:D
 
#50 ·
bumpin up an old one. im finallyy deleting mine. good byeee ebpv! yeah i've readabout the starvingthe turbo thing but it seems ALOT of guys have driven thousands of miles, no problem. ehh works like it works. cant wait to get rid of the sticking piece of crap!
 
#51 ·
instead of making a new thread ill bump this one.
ive read a few diy write ups but have yet to read a good one. do i have to pull the turbo? could someone link me to the video that actually works.
 
#52 ·
I would suppose if money and effort were no object, you might be able to somehow do it but why not take the pedestal out? You can change the O-rings while you are there. It would make the job so much easier.
 
#53 ·
I don't have a write up on this but yes you have to pull the turbo as the EBPV is in the pedestal that the turbo is mounted to.

Pull the turbo and then the pedestal. Grind off the rivets holding the butterflies onto the center shaft. The remove the butterflies and reinstall as it was before. This way you don't have to worry about oil leaks from the hole where the shaft was. Some have said that you can install a small freeze plug in the shaft hole to prevent this but it seems like work that is not needed. JMHO.
 
#54 ·
Pull the turbo and then the pedestal. Grind off the rivets holding the butterflies onto the center shaft. The remove the butterflies and reinstall as it was before.
But isn't the butterfly in a housing that the downpipe bolts to? Why would you need to remove the turbo and pedestal if it is?
 
#56 ·
i took off turbo, turned it on its side, used a die grinder to grind off rivets, hammer to GENTLY knock of the butterfly, blow nozzle to blow out turbo and done. no more ebpv. i totally left the pedastel alone. i did take off the eye on the end of the rod in the pedastal though. mine is now just a short peice of threaded rod. no plugs, no extra 200$. wired the rod into the turbo so it dont fall out, wired the wastegate shut cuz i was there also. mine still dont make over 22 psi, so im golden.
 
#57 ·
Hello all,
So if I understand this form correctly what you all are saying is that it is ok to delete the EBPV.. can I just unplug it and leave it at that?? I just took the tube and sensor off and the tube was pretty dirty. I cleaned it out and then I lightly cleaned out the sensor and put it all back together. I am thinking that when it is warmer out I can plug it back in....
 
#58 ·
a 5 year old thread ?? lol


the sensor for the EBPV is at the front of the pedestal (under the turbo) it has a wire lock on the plug like the IPR has..just un lock and unplug it then tie it up out of the way
the (EBPS) sensor and tube has nothing to do with the EBPV....
 
#60 ·
Mike is right on that. I didn't make it to 88mph to go back to the beginning of this thread, but it seems like the OP just didn't want tthe butterfly in the way of exhaust flow. To the guy who just resurrected this - the delete is usually done because the mechanism in the base of the turbo riser that opens and closes the butterfly eventually leaks oil. Why none of these people didn't just kill two birds with one stone while they had it all out, I don't know. I'm sure at some point in the last 5 years they've been back in there all over again tho
 
#61 ·
you still have the high idle..that's a different signal from the PCM... unplugging the sensor at the base of the pedestal only shuts off the EBPV...i been on all the forums for 8 years now and with thousand of T-4 mounting kits out there i have never seen a thread on a wet stacking problem..
 
#63 ·
The ebpv doesn't do anything for wet stacking. High idle does. I haven't had my ebpv for 10 years now without issue.
 
#66 ·
Don't know what problem you're talking about. I was adding to what Mike said because I was under the impression that the solenoid sucks the butterfly shut when high idle kicks on. Could be wrong.

Now I see the whole thing has added many new turns, far removed from the original thought. My interest has been lost.

Unfortunately, I had much better things to do in the last 8 years than lurk on every possible message forum and troll, troll, troll. Must be a lonely and unrewarding life to live. Keep yer chin up, things'll get better ;)
 
#67 ·
that's what i thought...
 
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