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Rocker arm fulcrum ?

32K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  Ryan81 
#1 ·
Once I have my heads in place, push rods in. Do I torque the rocker arm fulcrums down then torque the arp head studs second? or the other way around? Appreciate any help.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Fasttimez, Do I have to turn the engine until the push rods are at their low or can I just torque the rocker arm fulcrums down and torque the studs how it was when I took it apart? When I broke the bolts on the fulcrums at tear down the fulcrum pushed up a little, guess it was because of the springs. I just don't want to torque the fulcrums down and bend the valves or a push rod, should I worry about it? When I torque down the fulcrums it wont raise the loose head off the block will it? Or should I have the nuts hand tight on the other five arp studs that don't interfere with the fulcrums before the torques on the fulcrums?
 
#4 ·
No you don't have to turn the engine....you can torque them down to spec. and then torque the studs....your valves won't touch the pistons when you torque the rockers unless you've messed with your engine timing...The spring pressure of the valves isn't hardly enough to lift that heavy $ss head off the block...lol
 
#6 ·
torque the studs then then the rockers,other wise you will lift the rocker box off the head and not get an accurate torque on the studs
 
#7 ·
Okay fasttimez told me rocker fulcrum then studs, which is it? I would like to here some more opinions to make sure. One of yall says this way and the other says the opposite. I'm stumped and confused now. Who is right? Fasttimez or Turbodiesel 02?
 
#11 ·
It makes sense to me to (1) thread the rocker arm fulcrum bolts in by hand far as you can before the head raises up. Then torque your ARP head studs down, now you don't have to worry about the fulcrum plate turning to the right/clockwise while you are torquing the ARP head studs down, however that could be putting the fulcrum bolts in a bind or turning the fulcrum plate to the right/clockwise a bit. Then finish the 23ft/lb torques on your rocker arm fulcrum plates. (2) Or maybe just start your fulcrum bolts, snug down your ARP head studs so the head wont raise. Make your torques on the rocker arm fulcrum plate then go back and torque the ARP studs down to 210 ft/lb. (3) Another way I see it is to just snug the top five ARP head studs that don't interfere with the rocker arm fulcrum plates, then torque all the rocker arm fulcrum plates to the 23ft/lb spec. Now put on your five bottom head stud nuts and torque all of the ARP head studs to spec. I see three ways of doing this, one of them has to be right. Anybody have an idea on which way to go?
 
#13 ·
always torque the head down first before you assemble the valve train. then put your pushrods and rocker arms on and torque them down. wont hurt nothing, nothin will get bent. and you didnt touch the cam timing and the pushrods just didnt magically change length. so nothing can really be wrong. some valves will just open when you tightin the rockers down cuz obviously at some point there are always a few valves open, but it wont hurt nothing, just torque to spec. valve lash isnt adjustable so no need to worry about that. i always try to keep everything paired up though because once the parts (lifters to pushrods, pushrods to rockers, rockers to valves) wear a pattern on each other you dont wanna change that pattern.
 
#15 ·
I found this for you....hope it helps....Don't take my word for it, read Diesel Power Mags write up.....

Picture #1
Next up, a set of ARP head studs (PN 250-4202) were threaded into the block. Then, the supplied, multi-layer head gaskets (five layers) were installed with the stamped numbers facing up. We should also note that because this was an '04 engine (and built before July 19, 2004), the cylinder head dowels' outside diameters measured 18 mm. After that, the new, pre-assembled driver-side cylinder head (PN 3C3Z-6049-DA) was set on the block. Unlike the 7.3L, the 6.0L features just four bolts per cylinder and 10 bolts per bank-which is why installing ARP head studs is so critical on these engines.

Picture #2
It's important to note that, before the head studs get torqued, the rocker arms must first be fastened to 23 ft-lb. According to Jose Dega of Diesel Tech, tightening the head studs before the rocker arms can lead to a bent pushrod when the engine is started. Also worthy of mentioning, on '03 engines some of the clips that the rocker arms ride on were plastic and became notorious for breaking (this was not the case with our '04 engine).

Picture #3
Once all rocker arms were tightened, the head studs were torqued. ARP's Ultra-Torque assembly lubricant was used for this process. Ultra-Torque was designed to be a metal-free, consistent, and repeatable way to achieve the ideal torque preload on the first torque cycle.
 

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#18 ·
hmmm...


I use my Snap-On 7.2 drill driver to run the nuts down, than you can do the 5 hold em bolts toward the intake. ofcourse the rocker box was already torqued to the head. As long as you have the bolts on the fulcrums hand tight, torque the nuts down, than hit the platforms up, 28 ft lbs...

I wouldnt listen to any Diesel Power Mag...
 
#20 ·
I ended up putting all the nuts on the studs hand tight and the bolts for the rocker arm fulcrum plates hand tight as well. Torqued the rocker arm bolts down to spec. Then I went back and torqued the head studs to spec. Now I put in the top five 10mm head bolts and torqued them down to spec.
 
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