New buyer here - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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New buyer here

Whats up guys,
I just bought a 2016 F250 6.7 for a towing cars on an inclosed trailer business I am starting. I am new to the diesel trucks and honestly dont know anything about them. What would be some pointers you guys would give me, weather is for towing or in general.
I am looking to add a full exhaust and remove the original, add a tune and down the road an intake.
What are some mods you guys recommend?
I am looking for as much milage as possible.
Thanks


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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New buyer here

Nothing at all guys ?


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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 12:33 AM
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Re: New buyer here

You pretty much nailed it. You need to tune it in order to remove your rocket ship. I would also add the egr blocker plates right away to prevent it from filling up with soot since the tune keeps it shut, no limit sells a nice set with 4 plates so you can remove both pipes. Take a egt sensor out of your exhaust and put it in the blocker plate on the manifold and plug it into the harness that originally went to the egr probe. I did a nl stage 2 intake right off the bat as you usually need to specify that for the tunes or it will throw a code due to the sheer size of it. Takes some tweaking to get it to fit just right as well as its 1.5" bigger than the stock I believe. Don't let anybody kid you thou, no other intake will make as much torque across the rpm band as the no limit stage 2 as long as your tunes are good. I also replaced that metal coolant hose section with a chunk of hose from nl as well, this made fitment easier. I run Spartan tunes on the ndash with sotf and am quite happy but everyone has an opinion on which is the best. My choice would be Spartan or tyrant, both have a working exhaust brake with the factory button. My Spartan brake is stronger than it was stock. I went ndash as I didn't want to use a phone or tablet to monitor but if you do the ezlynk is a good option I hear. Make sure you start soaking the egr pipe bolts once in a while a week or so before attempting to remove them with your favorite penetrant, I like kroil if you can find it, especially the ones on the manifold as some people have broken them off. Good luck, you'll love the 6.7 once it's allowed to breath.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:36 AM
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Re: New buyer here

Save your money and leave it stock until the warranty runs out. It has plenty of power for what you want to do with it.

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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 01:04 PM
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Re: New buyer here

most important thing with the 6.7 is
#1: make sure you only run good clean fuel.
#2: pay attention to the truck. if it tells you to drain the fuel filter, DRAIN THE FILTER RITE AWAY!!!
THAT WARNING IS THERE FOR A REASON. IF YOU IGNORE IT, YOU WILL BE LOOKING AT A $10,000 BILL FOR FUEL SYSTEM REPLACEMENT

tom
owner of almost to many fords.



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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New buyer here

Quote:
Originally Posted by cappa View Post
You pretty much nailed it. You need to tune it in order to remove your rocket ship. I would also add the egr blocker plates right away to prevent it from filling up with soot since the tune keeps it shut, no limit sells a nice set with 4 plates so you can remove both pipes. Take a egt sensor out of your exhaust and put it in the blocker plate on the manifold and plug it into the harness that originally went to the egr probe. I did a nl stage 2 intake right off the bat as you usually need to specify that for the tunes or it will throw a code due to the sheer size of it. Takes some tweaking to get it to fit just right as well as its 1.5" bigger than the stock I believe. Don't let anybody kid you thou, no other intake will make as much torque across the rpm band as the no limit stage 2 as long as your tunes are good. I also replaced that metal coolant hose section with a chunk of hose from nl as well, this made fitment easier. I run Spartan tunes on the ndash with sotf and am quite happy but everyone has an opinion on which is the best. My choice would be Spartan or tyrant, both have a working exhaust brake with the factory button. My Spartan brake is stronger than it was stock. I went ndash as I didn't want to use a phone or tablet to monitor but if you do the ezlynk is a good option I hear. Make sure you start soaking the egr pipe bolts once in a while a week or so before attempting to remove them with your favorite penetrant, I like kroil if you can find it, especially the ones on the manifold as some people have broken them off. Good luck, you'll love the 6.7 once it's allowed to breath.


I appreciate the letter, thanks for taking your time educating me. I am going to have to research more info on how to do this. I am mechanically inclined so I shouldn't have a problem.
I see that these trucks can get tricky to work on and a lot to watch out for. I will looking into the NL guys for the parts. Since it'll be a pulling truck bot looking for max boost or power but rather safety and just a bit of power.
I have seen online where people gain crazy amount of tq on these things just by doing what was mentioned above.
Once again thanks for the help, its much needed.
I will also get into finding who is the best person or company to get a tune from. I know everyone has their own opinion.
All those with tune can chime in and give their opinion. Thanks


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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New buyer here

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjctransport View Post
most important thing with the 6.7 is
#1: make sure you only run good clean fuel.
#2: pay attention to the truck. if it tells you to drain the fuel filter, DRAIN THE FILTER RITE AWAY!!!
THAT WARNING IS THERE FOR A REASON. IF YOU IGNORE IT, YOU WILL BE LOOKING AT A $10,000 BILL FOR FUEL SYSTEM REPLACEMENT


Well I guess when you say good clean fuel you are referring to the better names of gas stations correct ? There is no way really of knowing how good and cleaned the fuel might be. Only place I know it has top tier fuel is Costco, all other gas stations are about the same.
What do you refer to empty/drain the fuel filter ?
Hope is not insane the gas tank, that would be a major pain to do if that light comes on while doing a 3000 mile trip with a 15lbs load.
I am completely new to the diesel world. So please dumb it down for me.
Thanks


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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New buyer here

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Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
Save your money and leave it stock until the warranty runs out. It has plenty of power for what you want to do with it.


Well everything I have read kind of contradicts this. Not trying to be a smart ass but screw the warranty. It is safer and more reliable to do the upgrades mentioned above for the longevity of the motor.
Chime in more if you think otherwise. Always like to pick people's brains. Never too old to learn.
Thanks for the response by the way.


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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New buyer here

I meant 15K lbs load!!!


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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 02:03 AM
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Re: New buyer here

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
Save your money and leave it stock until the warranty runs out. It has plenty of power for what you want to do with it.
I agree wholeheartedly. Just fixed a 5.9 cummims that blew the pressure relief valve and cracked a couple injectors. The relief valve had done it's job at one point, because instead of a return line like was supposed to be there, it was simply plugged off with a bolt. Meaning it blew to save the rest of the system, but instead of replacing it, he plugged it. In his defense, that stupid little valve was 800 dollars? still, when one starts spiking rail pressure and bypassing safety devices, one shouldn't be surprised when he breaks injectors and wears out pumps.

Check out these screen shots to get an idea of how much these chips actually manipulate things. The first pic is after I removed the chip, the second pick is with the chip still in. Light blue is fuel pressure set point and dark blue is rail pressure, red is the pressure actuator. See what the chip is doing? What is the ecm going to do when it wants 20,000 psi but it sees 3,000 psi.? Keep in mind the pressure isn't actually 3,000, it's still at 20,000, but the pcm doesn't know that. It thinks it's at 3,000. Note how low that regulator drops and how long it stays there. (The lower the duty cycle the more the pressure.)

I can only guess how high the pressure actually gets because the actual rail pressure reading is no longer accurate. But I know it's more than thirty because the relief valve opens at thirty.

Guys, don't do this. In my opinion, tuning this aggressive doesn't belong anywhere near these trucks. Not unless it's a sled puller or something. After all, sled pullers aren't really worried about damage. This guys lucky he didn't do anymore damage than he did.

I'm not saying don't tune. Just think about what you're doing is all.
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