OK so the u joints have bit the dust which of course pulled the seals out. How big a job is it to replace these and what's the common problems I am gonna run into? I know the joints are pressed in and I have that covered. Any tips or advice would be great. Thanks ahead of time
Two ways to do it I guess, first is you can tap the seal in and fight sliding the axle thru the tight rubber til it seats in the carrier or you can put ruber gloves on and slime it up to make things easier. Second way I've done is slide the seal almost to the yoke while the axle is out, then carefully line up all the stars moons and planets when getting the axle in the carrier and the seal in the end of the axle tube then seat/tap it flush.
It's arguable whether the hula-hoop seals are necessary at all other than for keeping pebble size debris out of the tube, the seals in the differential are all I'd worry about to keep water out... For those you gotta pull the carrier out and put them in from the inside, not like old style. Lots of beer for that job.
Regardless how you do it, it shouldn't add more than about 3 minutes per side to your reassembly.
I don't know if you're aware of it or not but the new dust seals you get will be totally different from the broken plastic garbage you take off. Ford updated them since our 08's rolled out of Kentucky... Now it's a solid steel piece instead of plastic.
Just throwing a FYI so you don't suffer a momentary episode of rage towards whatever parts supplier you get them from. I think the last ones I bought (at Ford) were around $30 a pop.
OK thanks and I didn't know, this will be a new one for me. It can't be that bad, hell I just pulled the turbos completely cab on and it can't be any worst then that.
Dude, if that's the case and you've been in there like that then this is like checking the tire pressure.
Just time consuming taking eeeevrything off for a three cent item then putting eeeevrything back on. The axles are coming out anyway, why wouldn't you?
Before I custom rigged my long needle nose pliers specifically for this application I trashed a bunch of KD and Lisle tips. It's just the depth that ring sits at that makes it near impossible to get the leverage you need to spread it.
Ground the ends of the pliers jaws to round enough that they fit in the ring holes and tap a wedge in between the handles on the opposite side of the hinge pin than the jaws. Simple and ******* but it works. Too bad Snap-On can't make something this durable and functional.
Photofvkit isn't cooperating, pardon the fingernail...
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