PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum - View Single Post - 7.3 Rebuild Struggles
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 15
7.3 Rebuild Struggles

I just finished building a 7.3 for my 2000 F350. The block and rotating assembly (forged rods), including lifters, came from a 2002, the heads came from a different 2002. Parts I used from the truck's original motor are the injectors, HPOP, Melling LPOP, pushrods and rockers, and all the sensors and wiring harness.

I also installed new ARP head studs, a new GTP38R PowerMax with new CAC Intercooler Boots all around. DP Tuner currently removed.

I had the block bored 30 over by a very respected machine shop. They polished the crank and cam, assembled the short block, and balanced the rotating assem. They used the genuine Ford overhaul kit with machined pistons. The machinist also went through the head and ground the valves, he was able to reuse all but a couple of the valves.

I finished the rest of the motor up. Boiled and pressure tested the radiator and intercooler.
Replaced the injector cups, cleaned everything very carefully, followed instructions for everything including silicon and assembly lube use. Then filled it with Delo SAE 30.

On the transmission I drained the torque converter, blew out the trans cooler, dropped the pan (deep dish BD Power) and changed the filter and filled it with 20+ quarts of ATF.

I cranked it a little after I got it buttoned up and had great oil pressure after about 20 seconds (Melling LPOP), but the batteries had to be charged. Next morning it fired right up. I backed it out of the shop and topped off all the fluids. After 10 minutes or so I went to bring it back in the shop, but as soon as I put it in drive it died and would not restart no matter what name I called it. Next day it fired right up and I tried to take it for a drive, but there was hardly any power and it ended up dying on the side of the road when I hit the brakes.

It seems to have less the warmer it gets to the point that it will die after a while. Even cold I have to floor it to get out of the driveway. There is a definite miss so I took the driver side valve cover (DS VC) off and unplugged one injector at a time while it was running. Cylinder 2 caused a minor change, 4 and 6 almost made it die, 8 caused no change. I am getting voltage on both slots of the injector plug on cylinder 8. If I put a screwdriver/stethoscope on injector 8 I can hear it firing.

One thing I should clarify, the reason I am building the motor is the old one had at least one dead cylinder and possibly two. I have only taken one of the heads off and number 7 - well, you can look at the picture yourself. The side I haven't taken the head off of failed a compression test on number 8. The injector tips and glow plug tips looked fine so I reused them. I also reused the injector
o-rings as they only had a couple thousand miles on them. When I pulled the DS VC to troubleshoot I thought there was more oil splashing around the injectors then there should have been so I replaced the injector o-rings on that side.

My plan forward is to try and get a scanner on it. I have a OBDII bluetooth eBay special that I am having trouble connecting to. I'm hoping that tonight or tomorrow night a friend of a friend with a Snap-on scanner can swing by, but he is really busy etc...

Thanks for any help you guys can provide and I apologize for the wordy post.

In case any of you guys are close I live in Klamath Falls, OR.
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