IPR O-Ring replacement - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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IPR O-Ring replacement

I need to replace my IPR O-Rings in my 94 powerstroke and dont know where to start. Is this fairly easy to do? Help!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 03:49 PM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

This should explain it a little ...http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm

95 E350 Cargo, E4OD , B/M aluminium Pan / 2 HD Trans coolers , Dana 60FF 3:55 , 140 V idm , Autometer guages , TDEO Dp flashed 60 Tow , EBPV delete , BB shim , cat sleeps with the fishes, Timbren SES, stage 1's coming soon
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 03:56 PM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

Here's a procedure for it from way back (from Coach Davis for those who remember him on TDS in the old days):

Injection Pressure Regulator Removal and Replacement by Coach Davis

I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensitive to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.

I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.

The Procedure:

I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baister (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceeded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!

Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.

I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.

I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into its respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.

I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned the entire valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.

I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.

After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.
The only thing that I've done differently is I simply removed the plug from the top of the HPOP reservoir and used a mightyvac to suck out the oil (that way I didn't have to reseal the HPOP reservoir top). I hope that helps! Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3 DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

Thanks guys! Im going to order the o- rings tomorrow and get em in asap. Wish i would have done this a few months ago while i had the fuel bowl out to do the fuel pump Oh well tho.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 01:02 AM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

When you shop for the O-ring kit pays to look around. Was quoted at the Ford Stealership $108.00...ahem said thanks but just can't do it for that...sorry. International was $25.00 for the exact same thing only in an IH parts bag...I would never have guested the price differential....holy...


Red 97 F250 CC 3:55, D60 Air Locker front, 175/80s, T500, TW files, Tymar, SD I/C, 6.0 fan, E-air, E-Fuel, SRK, SD springs front/rear, 145 litre rear tank (now ZF-5
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White / Silver 96 F250 4x2, SCSB E4OD, 4:10 stock for now mods to install: D60, engine stuff.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

I found them on ebay for $13.99. My brother in law works at napa so i think iam going to contact him. He did his in his 95 and i believe he paid around $15.
$108 for a few o-rings? are you serious?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 11:39 PM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

I was having the warm start issue also. I replaced the IPR orings and it is starting fine now. The issue is, it loping a little at idle. I didnt take the IPR apart, just put the new orings on and reinstalled. I checked the reservoir and it is to the top with oil. Any suggestions? i have run it about 15 miles on short trips hoping to clear up any air in the HP oil system. its starting to worry me.



95' 115k miles original, 4in straight pipe, LUK clutch/flywheel, S&B intake, TS 6-pos chip, SD starter, smoked dodge clearence lights, 03' intercooler, 3in lift, 35" Toyo MTs, SVO kit. Soon to come: 5" RSK w/ SD springs, rear disc conversion, costom front end replacement, Dodge tow mirriors, crystal lights and HIDs, and hopefully injectors someday
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 11:47 PM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

15 miles isnt enough 40-50 is good

1997 F-250 PSD, 130k, 4x4, Outlaw E4ODX, Standard Cab, reg bed, 3.55 LS rear, Swamps 225/146 injectors, Autometer Guages Pyro/Boost/Tranny, 3" downpipe, 3.5" adjusted exhaust, ts 6 pos chip, Tonys fun programs, Tru-Cool H7B, 285/75, factory alum rims, Western V-Plow, 6.0 intercooler installed not plumbed

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 08:43 PM
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Re: IPR O-Ring replacement

yes.... i agree it takes usually 50 miles or so to work all the air out

and for all you folks when changing any o-rings....use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly on the orings, and on the chamfer in whatever you're putting them back in...it works better than engine oil and won't damage anything....the best way is to goop the orings first with the vaseline, then put them on the valve-whatever. they won't "roll" thatway......

'97 Centurion. F350 4x4 CCLB
Full Force 180cc Stage I's, D66, SRP-1.1, ARP, Banks IC, DIY E-Fuel, EBPV Del & Gut'd Ped., BD Brake., SD IDM, HPX, BstFoolr, 4" DP - 4" exh,
6.0 Fan, 180 T-Stat, DIY Don.105006 AF, CCV Mod, BTS, 3/8" cooling lines, Tru-Cool Max, PML, Bumper Mod, Gauges, Fluidampr, Mellings LPOP.....
Tuned by "The WildMan".....
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