Yep, same exact procedure I used, except for the gloves. I dripped fluid for a week after that. But it did work perfect.

 

Thanks, I printed for my PSD file.

 

So just periodicly you need to bleed the powersteering? I know this is what you do after changing a pump or somthing but never heard of doing say every 10,000 miles or so.

 

You're right. You should only have to do this if you opened the system. However, it seems mine developed air in the system without me ever touching it. When my brake booster line developed a leak I replaced it and I found this procedure. Once I bled the system it turned lock to lock easily, while before the line broke it would not even want to budge the wheels. I have heard the same complaint a dozen or more times on this board and I always want to reply with this procedure.

If you follow this procedure and still have a difficult time turning w/o moving I'd say your pump is on it's way out.

There's great replacement p-pumps and gear boxes at Saginaw if you want to spend the money.

 

How big of tires are you running? I'm going to do this cause mine never has turned the wheels unless the truck was moving, even when new with stock tires.

 

even when new with stock tires.

I've heard that before. I have an Ex that has 315's so 33 inches. Nothing big, but

 

Its normal for many. The PW pump as well as gearboxs suck. My current one does it somewhat. If you have alot of steering play and the tie rods are all good and its in the box I strongly recommend Red head gear box.

For the PWS pump:

You can open up the piston in the current PS pump to get more flow at idle and low RPM conditions. Drill press is all that is needed. May want to think about adding a trans cooler to the return side of the pump if you run big tires and also a inline filters such as the magnafine sp? Ford use on the trans when they put in a rebuilt. Switch to a full syn POA fluid can also be a benefit. I use Schaeffer's All trans.

 

Another way which I have done is to use a old PS cap and put a nipple on it so you can connect a vacuum pump to it and pull a vacuum, worked good. I have also done this on brakes and hydraulic clutches.

 

So this system takes ATF and not power steering fluid?

 

Flushing the system and refilling with mobil synthetic fluid works well for reducing noise, and making it smoother. Never had any issues bleeding it though. Just fill it, fire it up, turn slowly lock to lock while checking/ topping it off.

 

I would also do this flush at the same time.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/38431/operation_diagnosis_and_repair_of_hydroboost_power _assist_systems.aspx

I also used synthetic tranny fluid.

 

This should be stickied IMO. Getting ready to try it out now, I smashed my PS oil cooler and just finished replacing it. Will post back with the results

 

Hey norcaldiesel,
Just wanted to thank you for your post. After following what you did in your post, I still heard a "hum", so I turned the truck on and turned the steering wheel back and forth, while pressing the brake peddle on and off about 30 times. This got rid of the "hum" I was hearing. My power steering and brakes seem to work better now than before I replaced the hose connecting the brake booster to the power steering pump. Thanks again!

 

Doing these steps will make my brake pedal come back? It goes to the floor right now. Changed ps pump last night. Went lock to lock with front off ground about 15 times earlier with no relief.

 

You can pull one line and flush the old fluid out...
there is a good youtube video on it.

 

this is a good one here
How To: Power Steering Flush on 7.3L/6.0L Powerstroke (HydroBoost) - YouTube

 

I have a 2005 f350 6.0 I change the pump add I still don't have powerstreeing I need help btw its on a 8in lifte with 35in tires on it what can I do plzz help

 

I have changed pump and gear box. My brakes are now acting wierd you push them let off and then they grab and slow you down bled the breaks and still doing it and my power steering I will bleed tomorrow and see if it gets better after I bleed it

 

Very old thread, but good info. Bleeding may help, but I doubt it. If you had any crap in the old fluid, it could have gotten into the spool valve on the Hydroboost, causing it to stick slightly. Worked on one in the late 70's where the spool valve had a little burr on it (new truck, warranty work) and it chewed through two sets of pads and a set of rotors before the hot PS fluid melted the plastic dipstick and put crap everywhere in the system, requiring a full teardown of box, pump and Hydroboost unit to get it out. Spotted the burr, polished it off, and sent it on it's way. The slightest sticking won't allow the master to return to the at-rest position where it can compensate for fluid expansion due to heat. As you drive with dragging brakes the heat increases, applying the brakes more and making more heat. A vicious circle effect. A quick check is to loosen the nuts securing the master cylinder to the booster a couple of turns each and see if the problem disappears (not a fix, just a test)

 

I USE THIS PROCEDURE, IT ONLY TAKES A FEW MINUTES.
NOTICE: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, premature power steering pump failure can result. The condition can occur on pre-delivery vehicles with evidence of aerated fluid or on vehicles that have had steering component repairs.
1. NOTE: A whine heard from the power steering pump can be caused by air in the system. The power steering purge procedure must be carried out prior to any component repair for which power steering noise complaints are accompanied by evidence of aerated fluid.
Remove the power steering pump reservoir cap. Check the fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the floor. Refer to the appropriate section in Group 100 for the procedure.
3. Tightly insert the stopper of the vacuum pump into the reservoir.
4. Start the engine.
5. Install the vacuum pump, apply vacuum and maintain the maximum vacuum of 68-85 kPa (20-25 in-Hg).
6. If equipped with Hydro-Boost®, apply the brake pedal twice.
7. NOTICE: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than 3 to 5 seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump can occur.
Cycle the steering wheel fully from stop-to-stop 10 times.
8. Stop the engine.
9. Release the vacuum and remove the vacuum pump.
10. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir.
• Use approved transmission fluid.
11. Start the engine.
12. Install the vacuum pump. Apply and maintain the maximum vacuum of 68-85 kPa (20-25 in-Hg).
13. NOTICE: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than 3 to 5 seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump can occur.
Cycle the steering wheel fully from stop-to-stop 10 times.
14. Stop the engine, release the vacuum and remove the vacuum pump.
15. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir as needed and install the reservoir cap.
16. Visually inspect the power steering system for leaks.
17. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir as needed and visually inspect the power steering system for leaks.
18. Install the reservoir cap.

 

I’ve got a 97 f250hd crew/short box.I’ve had some work done in the 7.3 and it goes down the road pretty good. Anyway I blew the pulley rite off the power steering pump. Fairly ez fix right. After a lot of misfires and 3 trips to the parts store, I finally wised up and measured the pulley and pump. No wonder it wouldn’t go on. Turns out after a great guy at NAPA did some research. There is another pulley listed that had correct dimensions for the new pump. I picked pulley up at noon and had it on 2:00. That’s more like it. Just cause the book says it’s correct, it can be wrong.