7.3 Rebuild Struggles - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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7.3 Rebuild Struggles

I just finished building a 7.3 for my 2000 F350. The block and rotating assembly (forged rods), including lifters, came from a 2002, the heads came from a different 2002. Parts I used from the truck's original motor are the injectors, HPOP, Melling LPOP, pushrods and rockers, and all the sensors and wiring harness.

I also installed new ARP head studs, a new GTP38R PowerMax with new CAC Intercooler Boots all around. DP Tuner currently removed.

I had the block bored 30 over by a very respected machine shop. They polished the crank and cam, assembled the short block, and balanced the rotating assem. They used the genuine Ford overhaul kit with machined pistons. The machinist also went through the head and ground the valves, he was able to reuse all but a couple of the valves.

I finished the rest of the motor up. Boiled and pressure tested the radiator and intercooler.
Replaced the injector cups, cleaned everything very carefully, followed instructions for everything including silicon and assembly lube use. Then filled it with Delo SAE 30.

On the transmission I drained the torque converter, blew out the trans cooler, dropped the pan (deep dish BD Power) and changed the filter and filled it with 20+ quarts of ATF.

I cranked it a little after I got it buttoned up and had great oil pressure after about 20 seconds (Melling LPOP), but the batteries had to be charged. Next morning it fired right up. I backed it out of the shop and topped off all the fluids. After 10 minutes or so I went to bring it back in the shop, but as soon as I put it in drive it died and would not restart no matter what name I called it. Next day it fired right up and I tried to take it for a drive, but there was hardly any power and it ended up dying on the side of the road when I hit the brakes.

It seems to have less the warmer it gets to the point that it will die after a while. Even cold I have to floor it to get out of the driveway. There is a definite miss so I took the driver side valve cover (DS VC) off and unplugged one injector at a time while it was running. Cylinder 2 caused a minor change, 4 and 6 almost made it die, 8 caused no change. I am getting voltage on both slots of the injector plug on cylinder 8. If I put a screwdriver/stethoscope on injector 8 I can hear it firing.

One thing I should clarify, the reason I am building the motor is the old one had at least one dead cylinder and possibly two. I have only taken one of the heads off and number 7 - well, you can look at the picture yourself. The side I haven't taken the head off of failed a compression test on number 8. The injector tips and glow plug tips looked fine so I reused them. I also reused the injector
o-rings as they only had a couple thousand miles on them. When I pulled the DS VC to troubleshoot I thought there was more oil splashing around the injectors then there should have been so I replaced the injector o-rings on that side.

My plan forward is to try and get a scanner on it. I have a OBDII bluetooth eBay special that I am having trouble connecting to. I'm hoping that tonight or tomorrow night a friend of a friend with a Snap-on scanner can swing by, but he is really busy etc...

Thanks for any help you guys can provide and I apologize for the wordy post.

In case any of you guys are close I live in Klamath Falls, OR.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 02:27 AM
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

When it dies check to see if tje fuel bowl and hpop res is full.

Also replace the injector orings on the passenger side. You cant reuse them.

01 f-250, Standard
Rev tech 4" lift, 37" military wrangler Mt tires
KC diy 66, Full force 160/100 and custom tunes from PHP
Banks intercooler and full 4" exhaust, Diy S&B intake
Diy quad feed, Hydra, Isspro boost, pyro, and fuel pressure
3/0 battery cables with military style terminals
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

I will check those tomorrow night, I have checked them a couple times, but I don't remember if it was directly after it died.

I was planning on doing the o-rings on the other side as soon as I got a chance, thanks for the reminder. It wasn't high on my priority list, but if it is possible that is the root cause I will get on it.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

Still haven't scanned it yet. Supposed to happen tomorrow night.

I checked the HPOP and fuel bowl after it died tonight. HPOP was within half an inch of the threads and the fuel bowl started spraying fuel out once I got the lid loose enough.

Once again the truck died after about ten minutes, about the same time it reached operating temp, I don't know if they are related. Tonight though there was a puddle of oil under the truck from one side to the other that wasn't there before I started it. It was coming out of the exhaust mostly on the driver side and was leaking out of every exhaust joint from the block to the rear axle, including the EBPV seam on the turbo. The turbo is a brand new Garrett BB, but I had to use my old EBPV of course.

Is it possible that because I used heat to remove the injector cups I compromised a valve stem seal and that is causing the oil leak? Or do I need to go back and double check the injector o-rings are correct on the driver side (I haven't done the pass. side yet)?

Thanks for your patience, I'm learning as I go.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:51 AM
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

I wouldn't worry about the oil in the exhaust right now. It's most likely from pulling the injectors.

Your going to have to scan it now. Watch your icp and ipr numbers. You could also try and poor some water on the ipr solenoid to cool it down and try and start it again.

01 f-250, Standard
Rev tech 4" lift, 37" military wrangler Mt tires
KC diy 66, Full force 160/100 and custom tunes from PHP
Banks intercooler and full 4" exhaust, Diy S&B intake
Diy quad feed, Hydra, Isspro boost, pyro, and fuel pressure
3/0 battery cables with military style terminals
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:45 PM
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

It's weird that it fired up fine but then had problems shortly after. And what's that picture of in the first post? I can't tell what I'm looking at there.

Also, with the crappy way that's been running, be extra diligent to seat the rings once you get it running correctly. No more idling until that's done.

Jamie.

p.s...I'm pretty frickin awesome!
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

The first picture is of cylinder 7 on my original engine.
Is it possible that the machinist installed the cam gear a tooth off? Would that match my symptoms?
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

Tried a different CPS, tried a different ICP, no change. Still haven't been able to scan it.

We did move the injector that didn't change the idle when unplugged to a different cylinder. When we unplugged that same injector in the new location there wasn't difference again, and the injector we move into that cylinder almost killed the truck when unplugged. We are assuming that it is bad and will order a new one in the morning. I would love to use this as an excuse to go with bigger injectors, but I already spent all my money.

Would having a bad injector cause it to die after 10 minutes, or cause it to have so little power? Or are there two issues going on here?
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 11:36 AM
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiesaun View Post
And what's that picture of in the first post? I can't tell what I'm looking at there.
That was one slap happy piston at some point!


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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 7.3 Rebuild Struggles

Tried a new injector in number 7. No change. Replaced all injector Oring's. No change. It is running pretty decent at this point, but should have more power. And it won't restart while hot. Boost is hitting high teens at WOT.
Got a OBD2 to USB cable and downloaded FORSCAN. At full temp with truck idling IPR was running about 12% and ICP was showing 480+/- psi. I think that is normal...
I had already tried a different used IPR with no change, the orings visibly looked fine. I ordered new IPR orings and replaced those last night. I also changed to a known good check ball and spring. One of those did the trick (guessing it was the IPR orings) as I was able to restart it at full temp. Hopefully I haven't spoken to soon, if I have you will hear back from me.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice. jamiesaun I'm doing my best to break it in quickly - boosted launches is what you meant, right?
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