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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
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strange battery drain

ok to start my truck has gone thru 3 sets of batteries in 7 months. truck isn't running right now. but I jus put in a new set of batteries last friday. 12.3 volts all around. now on sunday it had 12.3 volts still so I thought it would be good.went out of town and now today both batts dead. 0.01 volts. the lasf 2 sets did the same thing and when I had them test they failed both times. they are duralast golds. I have checked all over and there is no noise, no lights and nothin on I can find to drain power like that...... this week I wanna get some optimal red tops but I don't wanna put them in and fry them. can anyone please help?

2002 F250 crew cab, short bed, 7.3, 4x4, auto,8.5 procomp lift/37 in. tires.
needs new badges and paint,
it's a 7.3 PSD.what more can i say? does anyone have any extra parts they need to get rid of?


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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 03:51 AM
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Re: strange battery drain

For starters I would try charging them, instead of replacing a drained battery,


And secondly---what is the voltage when the truck is running--it needs to be somewhere in the mid to upper 13's. 13.9 would be nice.


How long is the truck off when it drains the batts.?

Do you have anything aftermarket tapped into the postive power on the truck anywhere,,,amps, lights, ect???

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: strange battery drain

voltage while running is low 14's i wanna say 14.2 ish
truck doesnt even last a week before it dies.... but there are exceptions. 2 times it has lasted 2 weeks. the batteries do not slowly drain down.o ne day they will be 12+ volts and the next morning 0 volts

yes i do but i have checked it over and over. i have a cb but i havnt turned it on it is constantly off. and my auto dim mirror which has been off as well. the truck has been off and i wired the mirror into a switched only hot wire. other than that i have removed any wireing thwat wasnt factory.... looked like the guy before me had maybe neons or something but the lines wernt connected to anything jus cut lose so i removed them and taped up the factory harness to prevent any grounding out. i jus dont know whats up. as for charging the batteries if it goes the same way it has twice before the batts wont hold a chrage.evey time the batts die they dont hold a charge afterwards. is it possible for a relay to sick and draw power?

2002 F250 crew cab, short bed, 7.3, 4x4, auto,8.5 procomp lift/37 in. tires.
needs new badges and paint,
it's a 7.3 PSD.what more can i say? does anyone have any extra parts they need to get rid of?


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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 07:39 PM
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Re: strange battery drain

YEs it is possible for a relay to stick and hold in the closed position. OFF the top of my head--quick things I can possibly think about are--glowplug relay, Air intake heater relay, fuel pump and lighting. Check and see if maybe the air intake heater relay is stuck on maybe. Its under your hood in the valley next to the Glow plug relay.

When you shut the truck off, take the negative battery cables off--touch on to the geound post and tell me if it SPARKS real bad or if any at all.

Theres a start to see IF you have a draw. And IF you do have a draw, you will need to get a AMP meter and run it inline with a ground wire to see how much of a amp draw you have.





.

This will take time to do. You can go this route to narron this down.

IN THIS SEQUENCE:

Put your key in the ignition and turn to the on/run position no need to start and shut door.

leave the ignition on and get out of the vehicle with door open then turn ignition off and pull key out.

DO NOT SHUT door, Take a screw driver and PUSH the door latch mechanism shut manually--this should fool the GEM module into thinking that the door is shut and it shuts down and turns off all interior lights. This is done so that you can have the door open without the GEM thinking it needs to fire up the interior lights.

Take a Amp meter and run it inline with a ground wire to see the amp draw--start pulling fuses one by one until you find the draw. This is really the best way to find the draw. I have used this method on lots of caterpillar machinary and it works WELL.

If you have anything hard wired without a fuse check that also(even if you THINK its off).

This should help I hope, Also make sure that your hood light is also off. As you want NOTHING on while you are trying to perform a troubleshooting procedure.

When finished with the troubleshooting dont forget to pull on the door handle and pop the latch mechanism back to the open postion.


Good luck and I hope this helps

Let us know how it goes.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: strange battery drain

ok i hve a multi meter that reads amps but how do i run it "in line"? and which ground wire should i use?/ does it matter which ground i use? my AIH is disconnected and i am not sure if i can remeber how the wireing goes i can check it tho. i know my WTS light stays on a long time but im not sure if its jus cuz its been so cold...... cant start the truck right now not running. last time i had power the wts light never went off while the key was on which i thought was weird. but thats the first time it did it usually it goes off after a few seconds.thnx jus let me know how to run the inline setup and ill start testing right now im gonna go print off the wire diagram for the GP and AIH relay to make sure they r hooked up right.

2002 F250 crew cab, short bed, 7.3, 4x4, auto,8.5 procomp lift/37 in. tires.
needs new badges and paint,
it's a 7.3 PSD.what more can i say? does anyone have any extra parts they need to get rid of?


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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 02:25 AM
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Re: strange battery drain

Set your DMM to AMPS and make sure that your test leads are in the right place on the DMM.

To measure amperage the DMM needs no be hooked up in line so that the current is flowing through the meter.

To perform this test you will need to completely disconnect one of your batts so that there is only one hooked up or you will get wrong readings.
disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery that is hooked up
place the red lead of the DMM on the negative cable
place the black lead on the negative post, now current is flowing through the meter
as CAT DZL said make sure all loads are off
the reading that you have will be a bit high because the modules are "awake"
leave the meter hooked up for about a half hour then check the reading then report back to us.

NOTE: it can take up to an hour before all the modules on the truck go to sleep

your reading should be less than 50 miliamps, anything more that that you will need to find the draw

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 03:31 AM
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Re: strange battery drain

The fellow above ths post had a good explanation of how to run your digital multi meter inline.


The glowplug circuit might be at fault here.

Does the truck start fine when it is startable?

The light should go off after the truck is started.

I am unsure at the moment what would cause the GP light to stay on for very long periods of time though.


Check your wiring and make sure that you dont have a Hot wire shorted to ground something goofy where you disabled the AIH.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 03:35 AM
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Re: strange battery drain

Also, be very careful using a DVM, sounds like you have a pretty good draw. If your DVM is only rated for milliamps and you are drawing more than that, you will have a fried DVM in about a half second.

Early '99 F350 DRW, Excab, LB. Auto. 2WD, 2010 bed, 2005 headlights, 298K, on my way to 1000K.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 04:34 AM
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Re: strange battery drain

usually they are 10amp fused. it should handle that. take the back off and it SHOULD have a glass 10amp fuse in it. Ive blown a few--on my cheap ones---and thats the reason I keep the cheap ones around, never fried the Fluke though

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: strange battery drain

yea mine is 10 amp. it started rough before but that was becuz i had a crack in my spider. as for the aih delete, i didnt do it the person who owned the truck before me did.... i checked it and everything is hooked up as normal but they jus took the red wire off that runs to the heater element and the ground both off. the other wires that run to the AIH relay are on as normal. i gotta charge my old battetries tomorrow and do some testing. i dont wanna put in my new optima batts with this problem cuz i dont wanna fry them. i also replaced every fuse in my fuse box today jus as a safety.... by chance does anyone know what circuits in the fuse box run on constant power? like which fuses should have power with the key off and which ones shouldnt?

2002 F250 crew cab, short bed, 7.3, 4x4, auto,8.5 procomp lift/37 in. tires.
needs new badges and paint,
it's a 7.3 PSD.what more can i say? does anyone have any extra parts they need to get rid of?


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