Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help) - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

Hey guys ive got the same problem alot of guys had, my fuel gauge is stuck on full all the time, it will go down when i turn the truck off but when i turn the truck on or start it, it shoots right up to full again, and also heres the other kicker, its been doing it since i got the truck, and the truck also came with another fuel gauge installed in the dash and it is stuck on empty, this is killing me trying to figure out, i suck with wiring and stuff, but i followed the red wire from the aftermarket guage through the floorboard and tested it with a test light and its getting power, but then i found that the red wire was plugged into a yellow wire that had been cut and the other end of the yellow wire was just layin there and it ran back up to the cab of the truck with the others, so im assuming its the wire that runs the stock fuel gauge so i tested it and it had power and i hooked it up, then i followed the yellow wire back to the tank and it plugged into a connector with some other red wire that lead to the top of the tank im assuming its the electrical sender connectors, well the yellow one had power and the red wire didnt, i then took a piece of wire and connected it to the yellow wire with it still plugged into the connector and then grounded the other end, the aftermarket gauge that was on empty jumped to full but the stock gauge stayed on full and didnt move any. I need help im tired of having to keep up with the miles i want a fuel gauge that works. Please help

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 04:46 AM
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

I've checked my wiring diagram book (although it's for a 2000, it should be same as yours).

First, forget the aftermarket gauge! Try to troubleshoot/fix the factory one.

The fuel gauge gets its power (+12 volts) from a red/yellow (red with yellow stripe) wire. It feeds multiple items in the instrument cluster (Door ajar light, seat belt indicator, wait-to-start indicaor, etc.). So, if these are working, then the cluster should be supplying power to the gauge as well. It is supplied by fuse #19 in the fuse panel.

The gauge cluster has 3 harness plugs. The sender wire passes through one of these plugs (C250b) at the back of the cluster.

The wire from the sender to the gauge cluster (instrument cluster) is identified as a Yellow/White (YE/WH) (yellow with white stripe). It runs from the cluster to the tank sender (assuming you don't have dual tanks). It does pass through a couple of additional harness connectors between the tank and the dash.

The other side of the sender is grounded. The sender resistance should be ~145 ohms (tank FULL) to ~22.5 ohms (tank EMPTY).

Here's what I suggest:

Start at the fuel tank. Using an Ohmeter (or digital VOM): check the resistace of the sender (to ground), with the wire disconnected. Make sure it's not shorted or open. The resistance should be between the limits stated above (A half-full tank should be around 80-85 ohms). If reading is zero, the sender is shorted. If the reading is infinite (no reading), then the sender is open. Either of these means a bad sender. Replace it.

Next: Check he continuity of the wire from the tank to under the dash. This is the hard part!

You'll need to find the wire in the loom as close as possible to the instrument cluster (this will likely require pulling the cluster out). As I said above, it will be a yellow wire with white stripe (YE/WH).

With both the sender-end and cluster-end disconnected (unplugged from the cluster), check the continuity to ground. It should be infinite, no reading. This will prove that the wire is not shorted to ground.

Next: short one end to ground (the tank-end might be easiest to short). Now, take a reading from the other end of the wire to ground. The reading should now be zero ohms (or close to it: Less than 1 ohm). This will prove that the wire is not open.

These tests will determine whether the wiring is good, shorted, or open, and whether the sender is good, shorted, or open. If all tests come out good, then you most likely have a bad gauge. Unfortunately, the gauge is contained as part of the solid-state circuitry that makes up the instrument cluster. You would have to replace the cluster as a unit (junkyard item, maybe?).

If the wiring continuity checks show a short-circuit or an open in the wiring, then you will have to trace the wire through each of the harness connectors in the system. It's a bitch! Or, you could try stringing a new wire from the tank sender to the back of the cluster...either way, it's a bitch!

Hope this helps. Good luck...

Cheers,

Al in SoCal



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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 12:34 PM
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

I hope you get it figured out. but until than......it costs you alt less for a talk of fuel now lol


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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

Thanks guys for the quick response, im gonna check it when i get home from work today and will post back afterwords!!!!

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 06:49 PM
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

my gauge was stuck at full (i watched it rize from 3/4 to full i said to my wife, look were making fuel)anyway dropped the tank to do mods and found the pick up in pieces and the float jamed to full .installed a 5/8 pick up and a 1/2 return
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

At the tank theres only two wires that run into the sender one is red and the other is yellow the yellow has power and the red doesent, with my meter in ohms position the and the plug still plugged together it read .068 to .069
So do i need to go on to the next steps or is my sender bad????

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

Oh and the Door ajar light, seat belt indicator, wait-to-start indicator light all work fine too i forgot to add that to my post.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:08 PM
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Man, I wish mine would stick on full. Lol
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 11:00 PM
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

I had the same problem with my 2000

I dropped the truck off to get the windows tinted w 3/4 tank of fuel.
When i picked it up, it was FULL. Thought it was kinda odd but just went home.
Well the gauge read full for 2 years. I wish the tank actually stayed full.
When I sold the truck, I promised the guy I would fix the problem. I got a sending unit to put in the tank. When I went to pull the sending unit from the tank, it was kinda stuck. I pulled a little harder and it popped free. It came out with the sender AND the float 1st. The float was jammed up against the tank.

there was a speed bump pulling into the window tint place and I guess the fuel shoshed just right and pushed the float up and jammed it. I bent the rod ever so slightly and put it back in. The gauged worked fine.

You may not have the same problem, but I figured I would share

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-31-2012, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Fuel Gauge Stuck on Full (help)

Thanks brad I may just drop the tank and see if mine is stuck or something, since all the wait before start door adjar lights are working is there any need in taking out the instrument cluster and checking the continuity from the plug to the sender????

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