that lifts looks sweet! HAHAHAHA everything gets lifted here in CO
Fabtech makes good stuff. Two guys in a garage started Fabtech back in the day = good for them
Also, ya lost me on body vs brackets. I've seen some lifts that just bolt brackets to the existing parts like knuckles and sway bars to gain the clearances. Then I've seen some that incorporate new parts like bigger knuckles, or control arms. I am not familiar with a body lift.
Body lift = taller mounts, or "pucks" (often hockey pucks were used to lift the body) are used on top of the cab mounts to raise the whole cab up 2-3"
Body lifts are cool because they allow you to run larger tires. They are pretty cheap to purchase and they only raise the cab, so the center of gravity is only effected by the weight of the cab going up from the frame. Problem with body lifts is when you get to 3" or more you have to extend things like steering shaft, wiring, brake lines. Also they are kinda ugly when not finished (leave gaps) and they make the engine appear small under the hood. I try not to use them, but have used them to make room for larger tires (to complete a lift)
Larger tires are how we get ground clearance and traction, basically the goal.
Drop brackets, simply drop the diffs, control arms, and suspension parts down from the frame. Like what you installed. Sometimes they come with extensions for the upper balljoint = no way jose. Any type of steering extension or ball joint extension = cheap and scrary I do not install these type lifts at my shop. Instead I would fab a new steering shaft or whatever. Only drop bracket lifts with taller knuckles will get installed here (More $$$ because Fabtech, Superlift actually have to cast a new knuckle) Drop brackets for leaf springs or sway bars work fine...but again any lift that raises the entire frame/drivetrain and cab effects the center of gravtiy by pushing all that weight higher in the air. Drop bracket lifts do not really get you any more wheel travel or a better ride. But they do allow for larger tires and in some cases a much longer strut/shock = improved ride, but a taller COG
Long travel = this would be the type of suspension I am into, This would be longer control arms and CV axles, actually moving the wheel away from the frame. Wider = better. Wider = more wheel travel, we call it "cheater travel" Long travel suspensions do not always raise the vehicle, but they often have adjustable ride heights (threaded body coil over shocks) so you can pick whatever height you need to clear your tires. These are the big $$$$ lifts that will actually improve the ride of your vehicle and make it more capable off road.
Larger tires = more traction contact patch, More travel = keeps tires on the ground, this is what I am after when I build a truck. Wider is better, more travel and a lower COG will keep you moving forward off road.
They all have their place, most street queens use a bracket type lift and combo of body lift to stuff huge tires
Jeeps, Rangers, yotas and Broncos will usually have some sort of long travel and increased width lift on them if they are serious about off road, no body lift.
My Bronco II uses a 1/2" body drop (still stuffed a 5.0L V8 drivetrain in there), I run fiberglass front fenders so I can keep a low COG and still fit 35-37" tires. I then built a custom 5" lifted 4x4
TTB suspension, 9" wider then a stock truck, with 14" of wheel travel = bronco II go off road.