Re: Body mount bushings? Anyone?
Here the write up .. Long winded..... sorry.
Pics will follow tonight...
Replacing the body mounts is a pretty straight forward project for the 2005 F250... The process is the same for all trucks 99 up to 2010 I think... but don’t Quote me...
The tools needed are basic and nothing elaborate....
18mm shallow and Deep 3/8 sockets (for Front cab mounts at radiator)
3/8 universal swivel (used for front cab mounts to remove upper bolt in engine compartment.
Large Slip Joint Pliers... (Used for grabbing the top locking collar on the front mounts after you jack cab)
18mm 1/2 drive impact socket. (Makes undoing the lower bolt in front mounts easier\faster) and is same size for removing bumper
3/8 Air Gun or Ratchet (for removal of various nuts and bolts in interior for back seat)
1/2 Air Gun... For the stubborn stuff...more on that later
Torx bit for seat belts bolts and storage tray under seat.
7/8 inch 1/2 drive Deep Socket for Passenger side mount bolts
1 inch 1/2 drive Deep Socket for Drivers side mount bolts
1/2 drive ratchets... Long handled ratchets work the best for leverage
7/16 3/8 drive deep socket (used to drive inner lower cab mounts out of top part... refer to pic)
1/2 Torque Wrench
6 inch Vise... Helped hold old bushings to remove factory hardware.
Razor blade (use to cut the rubber from around the mount hardware (some factory rubber encased the metal hardware and is easier just to cut way)
Jack and some 2x4 blocks of wood. To raise cab of a lift is not available (also helps with Lift to spread the weight where the lift pad contacts body)
2 foot piece of 2/4 to place on jack to lift very front of cab (even with lift, the front cab still needed a bit of help lift to make clearance to get front Mounts out.
Jack stands (used for when you remove front wheels if you decide to).
PB Blaster or other penetrating oil.
It took me about 7 hours to do whole job... I didn’t have anyone’s help and chose to take out interior instead of cutting carpet (which some folks might
do to save a bit of time.
> This can be done by 1 person, but 2 people deff make it easier.
> Spray down all bolts and hardware with penetrating oil a couple times a week or two before doing the job...it will work in and make the process go easier
When separating the hardware.
> Job requires Beer... when you’re fighting the old rubber mounts, and you’re not getting anywhere... have a beer and relax... :)
> Do not use an impact gun to remove the big body mount bushings... with some of the mounts, with deteriorated rubber, the whole mount might spin on you...
and then you’re left figuring out how to hold the bottom plate of the mount (this is where a second body could come in handy.
> Do not use an impact gun during assy.. with all mounts loose (and the aftermarket poly mounts being smaller.. they could just spin in place when you
attempt to gun them in. Also, you don’t want to over compress\tighten anything.
> These are fine thread bolts... when hand tightening, it seems to go on forever.. but just take your time.
> Putting a pry bar, under the washer of the bolts as your tighten them down, allows you to lift the bottom plate into top plate of the mount so you can
Tighten them without much spinning.
> 7/16 socket is the right size to place in hole of each mount, after you remove the bolts for disassembly, then put an extension on the socket and hit it
with the hammer.. it will drive lower mount hardware out without damaging the treads. Some folks use the stock bolts and simply hammer those.. but this
way you run less risk of thread damage.
> if you secure the 18mm bolts to the sockets with Electrical tape. you can put the nuts back in eng compartment for the front mounts without needing to
unbolt or remove anything from engine compartment.
> If doing this yourself, and you need to put a bit of pressure on the lower bushing mount to hold it in place, you can use the 2x4 on a jack to lift
it and seat it, it also puts enough pressure on everything to hold it in place from spinning so you can tighten the mount bolt.
> You need to remove the front bumper; this has to be done to give you a path to install the new front mounts inside the boxed frame. a long pry bar is good
here.. and helps in positioning the mount. The bumper is held on by 6 bolts.. don’t forget to remove the plug from driving light is your truck is so
> Taking off front Wheels helps with room to move around... job could be done with them left on, but having more room is a bonus.
> When completed, road test without putting all the plugs and interior back in. This allows you to catch any noises and loose items that need to be
addressed before you button it all up.
> Although it’s recommended not to coat the new bushing with anything.. I chose to LIGHTLY coat the hardware with some antisieze..so that I don’t have an issue
Separating the hardware down the road if it ever need to.
Steps I followed
1) Remove Rear Seat, rear storage tray and rear storage box along with Jack.
2) Remove seat belts that prevent carpet from being pulled up.
3) Remove Trim Pieces along the floor that run the span of the rear door openings.
4) Remove the Trim pieces along the floor that run the span of the front door openings
5) Raise power seats to highest position (if you have power seats) allows for clearance to move carpet around
6) Slide seats back and remove the front side kick panel on passenger side..
7) No need to remove the front driver’s side kick panel, just slide carpet out from underneath it.
8) Fold carpet in the back up to front seats
9) Fold Carpet in front of front seat back at angle to uncover the covers. Remove the plasic covers to gain access to mount bolts.
10) Place truck on Jack stands and remove front wheels (optional but recommended)
11) Remove the 6 bolts holding front bumper and unplug the driving lights before fully removing from truck
12) Remove the 18MM bolts in engine compartment on both pass and driver’s side front mounts.
13) Remove the Right side cab mount bolts and keep them sorted, they are diff sized heads then the driver’s side. Also diff lengths.. Don’t mix up hardware.
14) Loosen the Left side bolts all the way.. You will be putting the bolts back in after next step
15) With a 7/16 Deep Socket and an extension... Insert it down each bolt hole and give some firm taps with a heavy hammer.. this will break the lower mount hardware from the top hardware mount ... might have to spray more penetrating oil down holes and let them sit. but mine came out easily with a few hard hits, DONT Remove the lower mount hardware completely.. you just want to break it free...
16) Reinstall the Left Side Bolts and screw in a few threads. these will be used to hold cab in place from shifting as you lift opposite side.
17) Place Jack with Wood Blocks (long pieces to spread the weight across the body )under cab and jack up till you have clearance to remove old mounts. Lift
only as high as needed, so you don’t break anything.
18) Climb under cab and remove the right side lower mounts
19) Using a heavy hammer tap the top mount at each spot out of the frame.. Doing them one at a time, so hardware is not mixed up. On a crew Cab there are 3
main cab mounts on each side, and 1 front mount by the radiator at each side.
20) Place the top mounts into each hole between the frame and the cab
21) Now move to the front mount by radiator .. you will need a jack and about 2 foot 2X4 .. Please jack under front body around the area of the mount and
jack up body to give you just enough clearance to remove mount.
22) Grab your large slip joint pliers and hold the top Mount hardware, while you unscrew the mount from the bottom using the 18mm socket and air gun (just
saves time, due to being an awkward positions to work at..
23) Once all unbolted, Remove the upper mount by Prying out of the frame.
24) Remove the lower mount that has fallen into the boxed section of the frame, using a pry bar.. or someone whit really small hands who might be able to
25) Reassemble the front mount with new hardware. Installing the upper mount into frame, placing the lower mount INTO boxed frame and sliding the bolt up
thru all pieces and tighten down,
26) Remove the jack you placed in the front of cab now
27) Now go back and slide the lower mount bushing and hardware into each main cab mount, a light tap with a hammer might be needed to seat the two halves
together so they stay. Do this before lowering the cab, so you don’t have to attempt to shift the mounts in position after the fact.
28) Lower the cab on the right side now.
29) Insert the bolts down the holes and start tightening them down a couple inches, for the front mount, ensure the washer in place before putting 18mm
30) Now perform the same steps on the left side as shown above. (repeating steps 17 thru 29 after you remove the left side bolts)
31) Once you are done with all mounts, lower the cab back down onto new mounts...
32) Take a few minutes to ensure cab is lined up and square on the frame\mounts.. and all body lines look good. Check for Level, square and straightness
before tightening down any bolts.
33) Now start at the front mounts, and tighten the 18MM nuts in the engine compartment by the radiator
34) Go to position 3 on each side (behind driver\passenger seats and tighten the bolts. I torgued to 85 ft lbs.
35) Go to position 4 (furthest back) and tighten\torque
36) Go to position 2 (In front of both drivers and passenger’s seat).. Tighten and torque
37) walk around cab and double check all body lines.. Give the cab a shake or two.. to see if anything makes noise and attend to anything you find.
38) Reinstall front bumper.
39) Put Front wheels on and take truck of jack stands.
40) Road Test...
Once you put some miles on it and have rechecked body alignment.. reinstall interior (trim, seat belts, rear seat).
That’s it.....I was lucky that none of the mounts were so stuck that it required any drastic actions (sawszall, custom pullers etc) but allow yourself time
just in case)
2005 F250 Harley CC SB Banks IQ, 4" Exhaust, Banks Techi Cooler with High Ram, Cold Air Intake, Cat Delete,EGR Delete,Coolant Filter,Amsoil Oil Filter Bypass, PHP ECM Rollback, PHP FICM Tuner, Rancho 9000XL shocks and Dual stablizers. Firestone Ride Right Air Springs w/Daystar Cradles. 194K