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06 6.0 Newbie No Start Ficm test good.

7K views 34 replies 4 participants last post by  Camacho 
#1 ·
Ok so here is my dilemma, I've got a 6.0 4x4 xl truck. its been a problem child since i got it but when it works i love it so much its worth the fight to keep it going.

What i'm look for is some help running down where to check for the crank no start i'm getting, currently i don't have a scangauge or access to one. im working on that.

So the problem is the truck will crank till the batteries are dead and just will not fire. we got it to run on starting fluid as long as we kept it fed but it never did fire the injectors. Iv load tested both batteries and they check out good. but one would only charge to %60 so i'm thinking that could be my issue. but when i tested the ficm voltage it read 49v during injector clatter. though when i checked the batteries with a multimeter they would show 12.5 to 12.8 volts drop to 11.6 during injector clatter and then drop as low as 9.4volts when cranking so i thought maybe my starter was going bad, puller that had it tested sure enough it tested good. so where i'm at is either that volt drop is keeping the ficm from maintaining 46+ volts during cranking or the only other culprit i could see is the IPR. I did replace the EGR Cooler and oil cooler around 5k miles ago but by that point my guess would be the ipr would have go sooner. the truck also had hot start issues with a long crank for some time. the day it stopped it was driving most the day and when it stated i has getting ready to leave and gave it a few revs just messing with some friends, and on the third rev when it idled down it just died and wouldnt start. been down since. going to pull the IPR soon just to check it since its the last mechanical piece i could see being the problem.

if any one one here sees some things i missed and should check the help would be more than appreciated. trucks of $40 of diesel just sitting in the tank. :crying:
 
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#2 ·
welcome to the forums!
definitely need to start with something to read codes & vitals from the obd2 port. also, can you tell us more about the 'hot no/long start' issue? to me it sounds a bit like high pressure oil problems, i'm guessing that's why you're guessing it's the IPR?
 
#3 ·
well for a while when the truck gets warm like a little higher than operating temp it takes about a good 5-8 seconds to start. when it's cold though it only needs a few cranks and it will fire right up(when it does start). so after testing everything i could think of that i can testes with a multimeter the only thing left is the ipr. seeing i just recently replaced the egr cooler and oil cooler myself my guess is that's the next place to look, a while ago it was throwing low injector pressure codes. but that was solved with an oil change and a new ICP sensor. i had also just replaced the egr valve itself last time it had a starting issue the valve had failed and wasn't allowing the truck to start.

So at this point i'm thinking its oil system i just doing know what part. when the truck cranks i can see the gauge reading that it has pressure and i can see the Lpop kicking on before i start cranking. any ideas where i could look while i'm waiting to snag a scan tool?
 
#4 ·
well the most common faults on the HPO is the STC fitting (05-07 i believe), and the orings on the standpipes & dummy plugs (all 6.0s). it could very well be an issue with the IPR i suppose. you can try to take it out & look at the screen, you can visually tell if it's torn. ideally, if that's the issue then not a whole lot of work, but if it's internal like the orings or STC then it's quite a bit more involved.

also, that scan tool will tell you what exactly the ICP and IPR are doing. that will tell yo ufor sure if teh ICP is bad again or teh IPR is failing. there's some great videos that dieseltechron has on youtube over all of this, def need to check those out!
 
#5 ·
yeah ron is who iv watch for most of my attempts at fixing this rig. My next guess is the orings and fittings though im praying its just the ipr or icp lol. Do you know off hand if any of the bluetooth scan tools work?
 
#6 ·
actually, i do hear that those $20 - $30 obd2 dongles with the torque app loaded on your phone lets you read all those essentials, i've just never used it myself! couldn't hurt you much, always use that for a different vehicle lol
 
#7 ·
What year is the truck?

Look up FICM testing with a volt meter....test it the right way and not with electronics hooked to the OBD port. Replace your batteries...they shouldn't drop that low under load. Weak batteries kill ficm's.

Rob already hit most of it in the head. You probably have a high pressure oil leak...where depends on what year the truck is, hence why I asked. And you need a way to monitor numbers (ICP, IPR, etc). Only way to diagnose these things really.
 
#8 ·
Its a 2006, i did the ficm test during injector clatter with a multimeter its got the 4 pin so i tested the pin closest to the driver side fender and when the key was on they would jump to 49v i did not test it with the truck trying to crank though, so i'm wondering if during crank its dropping under the 45v minimum needed but i won't know until I can get my hands on a scangauge. i know its not advised but im going to buy one battery at a time over the next couple months since i'm short on cash.
 
#9 ·
Use the volt meter on that same pin and see what it shows while trying to crank. It can read 48-49v all day with no load on it. You need it to be 46v plus while cranking and running. Although, if you were having no start hot issues, I doubt that's the problem. Being an 06, I'm betting on STC fitting, coming off the HPOP. Hard to start when hot, then progresses to a no start usually points to that. If not that, possibly a leak on the standpipes or dummy plugs, all of which are common without the updated parts.
 
#11 ·
That job can be done in a long day. If you are even somewhat mechanically inclined, do it yourself. If not, most shops charge around $100/hr. Probably bill it as an 8hr job if I had to guess, plus parts.

There are a few guys working in the business here...maybe they will chime in on pricing.
 
#13 ·
Chit...I really am in the wrong business...

That's roughly $500 in parts. $1500 profit ain't bad for one day's work huh!
 
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#16 ·
Yeah i can do it just dont think i have the time. When i did the egr cooler and oil cooler it took a day to tear down. But i also hadnt worked on that truck at all before. So if thw shops around here quote thousands ill probly do it over two weekends at my place haha.
 
#19 ·
Yes on standpipes location. As for STC fitting, pull the turbo and pedestal. Intake stays. Will pull the cover off the HPOP, which is under the turbo.
 
#27 ·
Most likely one or the other is leaking. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction.
 
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